Alright guys, i need some help. Im 15, building a 350 for my Camaro Roller. I need help on the Camshaft selection. the motor i have is a 1978 350 4 bolt main, high output motor. Im trying to make alota horse power. something to make rumble undewr the hood and run nice times on the 1/4 mile and be able to drive on the road.

so here are my questions...

Hydrolic Vs. Mechanical Vs. Roller Lifters? which is best for alot of power?

Crankshaft choice for power?

Valve springs, single, double or triple springs?

And Any recomandations for push rods?

and when talking crank, i plan to replace it. i was think of just replacing it with an OEM Crank, but would it be a better choice to replace it with a racing type of crank?

 

if you want to drive it on the street and dont want to have to adjust the valves every 1k miles, avoid solid lifters. hydraulic lifters also help with vacuum, which will help with the brakes. its your choice whether you go with flat tappet or rollers. the rollers are less friction, thus more top end power, but you need to buy a retrofit kit. is there anything wrong with the crank thats in it now? the stock one can handle 7k rpm and about 500 hp without causing any problems. if you are running more, i recomend a scat or eagle forged crank. the cam and head combo would be dependant on where you want the engine to run, and since you said street use, im going to guess a power range of 2500-6500?

 

it'll be 60 over, i was thinking of doing a 383 stroker but i cant afford that at 15 and i dont wanna do it by using the 400 crank. and no the crank is still good, i just wanna replace it, i was thinking eagle crank. i want a choppy idle, but not drag car choppy, and is their a reasonable cam that'll give me low and top end?

 

the only cam that will give low end is what came with it stock. anything that makes more power will move the bottem end of the power range up. the factory is 1000-4500 as the power range. there are a few milder cams that you will be able to hear when the lift range is just short of .500" lift. as for building a 383, the ony way to do that is with a 400 crank. if you arent building a high hp engine, then just reuse the stock crank.

 

The type of cam (hydraulic, solid, roller) does not determine whether it has more or less vacuum. The duration and overlap of the cam are what determines the amount of vacuum your engine makes with any camshaft. Get a cam with too much duration, and it wont matter what it is, it wont develope enough vacuum to run a power brake booster.
When choosing a cam you can get more HP and still retain a lot of bottom end, if you buy a cam with the shortest duration. This limits how radical the cam is, as most cam makers lengthen duration and overlap as they raise the lift. But you can try to get the most lift pssible, while keeping duration around 286 degrees or less. If you don't run vacuum brake booster, or don't care about bottom end power, then forget about duration and go crazy.
I personally would go with a hydraulic, not a roller, and I'd also go with roller tip rockers too.
I would agree with keeping the stock crank, if it's not damaged beyond what normal turning can repair. No need to spend the kind of money it takes for a aftermarket crank when a factory will be fine for most street/strip applications.
I'd also keep pistons to no more than 9.5 or 10:1, as the gas will be a problem, even with premium. I'd reccommend going with a good set of aluminum heads with 65 cc chambers, and 2.02 intake valves. That should work with just about any cam set up. Most heads these days will come set up with the correct valve springs, if you tell the supplier your cam specs, so no need to choose what spring rate you need, just let the head supplier do that for you.
Hope this helps.

 

@microkid - the 400 crank would have to be turned, and iknow thats how to do it, but i alsoknow its the cheaper way and less power and isn't good. i know how to get it done, i can get the special rods and the whole deal, but i know the old school 383 way.

to the other guy, im 15, i can afford a 2,000 dollar set of aluminum heads, this is a home build on a budget, street car.

 

and what is this old school way you speak of?

 

Great! Glad you can afford them at 15!

 

***CAN'T AFFORRD 2,000 dollar heads haha

@microkid - There's 2 ways of doing a 383 stroker...
The old school, out dated, not near as good way..
350 block, punched out (.030") but .060" will work too, std. 350 pistons (to fit bore size), 400 short 5.565" rods, 400 crank and have it turned down to fit 350's 2.45" mains, then use a 400's extranal balanced flexplate and damper



Or the much better, stronger, and last longer way..
350 block punched out (.030") .060" over will work too, std. 350 5.7" rods, "383" stroker pistons made to work with the bore you have, and the 3.75" stroke, then one of the many drop in 3.75" stroke cranks... Scat makes thier 9000 cast crank (stronger than GM forged, plus lighter) for right at $200 in the 2.45" main journal size with a 3.75" stroke.. It will drop right into the 350 block.
The longer 5.7" rods will cause less side thrust, side loading on the cyl walls, piston, and ring package..
The right pistons will have a shorter compression height (wrist pin to top of piston) due to the diff in 3.48" and 3.75" stroke.. That also means piston will be alittle lighter and help with rate of accel. That combo will work with a std 350 internal balanced flexplate/damper.

Now what your over looking is clearance prob..
On ALL 383 stroker builds you will have to clearance (grind) a few things.
If std. rods are used, the shoulders of the rod bolts will need to be ground down.. Or you can buy $300 aftermarket rods already stroker clearanced.

Depending on the cam you use, if its a big size, you may have to go with a small base circle.. When this is done, std. lenght push rods won't work most of the times.

Next, the 3.75" stroke crank's counter weights will hit the bottom of some of the cyl bores and you must mark, and grind the bottom of bores for needed clearance.

Also You may have to grind the block's oil pan rails for clearance of the crank throws too.

Next, is oil pan clearance.. Alot of the stock pans will not clear.. Even a good bit of the aftermarket pans won't clear the 3.75" stroke in a 350

 

Just kidding ya a little!
If you want to save money and still build a decent engine, then go with some 1.94" or 2.02" stock Chevy heads. They're still around, and not priced too badly. Could maybe even find a set of heads from a newer Vortec 350, and buy an intake to match that style head.
Any of these will help an average SBC breathe well, and develope good HP.