Well he disconnected the fuel line at the tb and we got quite a bit of fuel out of it. He is right now getting ready to do a compression test on it to see if that could be a problem. This car has just been a headache! Hopefully we find out soon what is wrong, we need that second vehicle!

 

double check the cap and rotor positioning. check the rotor position at tdc and make sure its pointed to the number 1 cylinder or is 180 off. being a 4 cycle it has to go round twice to get to the firing cycle so it is 180 off on the exhaust cycle. check the wires to make sure there in the right place. compression test is a good idea. how did the problem start. was it after a tune up or other work on the car or did it just start doing it? u said it started with a shot of starting fluid, take a shot glass of gas and pour it into the tb and see if it starts. starting fluid will dry the cylinder wall and burn them so its not a good idea to use on a gas motor. if the motor is not getting fuel and thats the only problem then it should start right up and run reasonalbly for a few seconds. if that is the case then the injectors are not shooting the fuel to the motor for some reason. could be vats i suppose if your car has it. do u have a coded key. little bump on both sides the key with metal at the center of it.

 

Did the gas shoot out under pressure, or did it just run out like it was draining the fuel rail? And did he try priming the pump with the fuel line disconnected (shooting into a container) to see how the pressure was?
So far you replaced most everything, except the fuel pump.
I would leave the ignition stuff alone since you know you have spark, because the engine runs on starting fluid.
And you know you're not getting fuel because it will run when you feed it some externally.
It still smells like a fuel pump problem to me.
And it would not be your VATS, because then your engine wouldn't even turn over, let alone not fire up.

 

We do have a coded key but have bypassed it with a resistor.

While my husband was home on R&R it was running and discovered 2 fuel injectors had gone bad. Weren't really having many problems other than it was running rough and rich. It did take a bit to start but would eventually fire up. He then left and it did start the couple times I drove it. But then it did eventually about a month later just wouldn't fire up. It would just crank and crank but no start. He came home and was able to change out the injectors and the same problem, would just crank with no start up. At the same time he replaced the injectors he replaced the fuel filter. Still nothing!

We do have a VATS. And from our understanding the VATS would only kill the starter and that would mean we wouldn't even be able to crank it. Is our understanding wrong?

I would really like to get this figured out because the car has hit our limit of frustration and is about to get junked!

 

We did prime the pump with the line disconnected. It didn't come shooting out so to speak but came out with some pressure. About half a cup of fuel came out when the pump primed. So I guess what do you define shooting out? I guess we are just baffled by the fact that we test the fuel pressure when the pump primed and it was within limits so how could it be the pump gone bad?

 

When you checked specs on the fuel pressure, did it hold for a prolonged period of time? Like check it, and go back a little while later and check it again.
When the fuel pump initially primes, it is controlled by a relay (under the hood) when you turn on the key. Then the relay switches off a few seconds later. As long as fuel pressure is where it should be, you have what fuel is needed to start the engine. Then as soon as the engine starts, the computer takes over and sends the signal for the fuel pump to run. The constant running of the pump is unrelated to the priming relay. I'm only telling you that so you don't go chasing your tail...even more!
And you do have a pulse signal on all the injectors?

 

Ok he said we do not have pressure for a prolong period of time. He says he thinks that as soon as the pump stopped priming the pressure started dropping off, he says he thinks only because he has done so much he is forgetting!
He said tomorrow he will have to check all the injectors. He checked on on either side because he was just making sure that there was a signal going to them, we were having troubles with getting power to them at one time not a problem anymore. So he will check them all tomorrow!

 

Relieve the fuel pressure from the schrader valve on the fuel rail, then attach the pressure gauge. (you may already know that part)
Turn the key on and watch the gauge. As the pump is priming, fuel pressure should read between 34 to 47 psi. After the pump shuts off, pressure should drop just a little, but then hold steady at that point.

 

Ok checked the fuel pressure and it did bleed off to around 20 after the pump was done priming and was still going down slowly. So we went out and got a new fuel pump and it is installed. And still nothing! It is still cranking but won't fire up and start! Any other ideas?

 

69 wouldnt a bad maf do this? if its showing no air flow it will not shoot the fuel right.