Well, since my 305 spun a bearing at 149,000km (92,500 miles) I am thinking over whether I should repair it or go for a 350 instead.

If I do go that way, I intend to keep it looking stock- so the TPI intake, valve covers and such has to stay, as well as anything else I can possibly continue to use to drop the price of the swap. I had figured I would start with a 350/290 from GM Performance Parts and go from there.

Now, it must be said that I have nowhere to work on the car, no tools, and no skills. About all I can do myself is write cheques. :/ Naturally I am looking to avoid spending a pile of money if I can help it.

So, hopefully some of you can help me get her back on the road for next spring, 'cause I am getting pretty tired of not driving it, lol.

 

its actually very easy to pull the motor in a third gen. you will need a 10mm, 12mm, 13mm, 15mm, 3/8", 7/16", 1/2", 9/16" and 5/8" wrenches and sockets and you should have most of the bolts covered with those. the gm crate engine would be a good choice, however with a better warrenty and cheaper price you could get a blueprint engine. www.blueprintengines.com its where i got my stroker, it was $3500 to the door with a 3 year/50k mile warrenty. all of their engine blocks use an 87 and later design, so your flexplate will work, and most use the 87 up heads if you get one with cast iron heads.

however, there are a few things you will need. the knock sensor for a 350, the prom chip for the 350, 22lb injectors, harmonic balancer for a 350, and possibly a few other peices. just make sure you save the fuel pump block off and engine brackets from the 305. everything else should transfer right over. they also have a very helpful tech department as well to answer anything

 

I like this motor. Its cheap, brand new and puts up solid numbers. I agree with Micro, you should try to attempt to swap the engine out yourself. Have a knowledgeable friend help you.
http://www.jegs.com/p/GM-Performance...52506/10002/-1

 

that engine will require a different intake and flexplate, and is just the stock truck engine. what he has listed is the starting point for his year setup

 

I only wish I had the time to figure it out on my own- I work two jobs, which pretty much leaves me with no time to do much of anything myself, even if I knew how. On that note I can't even change my own oil. >.>

I figured keeping the 305 would cost around $2000 or so, and then of course it's still got the age and the mileage on it.

It is important to me that it appears as close to stock as possible, and I'd prefer not to spend more than $3000 to have it running again, if possible.

And then obviously I won't actually be doing anything until spring- no point in fixing the car just to park it, after all.

 

I am doing thinking of doing the same swap, down here where I live it is not unusual to find a 350 for $150- $300 and me and my father in law do all of own mechanic work, so i am kinda looking forward to my mods as they come. But, I do like to get more info before making decisions.

 

i think this engine would be the best option and given the garuntee, its worth it. i couldnt imagine it costing more than $1000 to have it installed, and not more than $500 for the supporting ecm parts. you could save money and get used injectors, but i prefer new. do you already have headers on the car? if not, may as well while youre at it, same with motor mounts. http://blueprintengines.com/index.php/gm-355-bp35511ct1

 

As it sits now, the car is completely stock and has never been modified.

So it looks like I am looking at about $3500 all told? I'm wondering if there is any way to nudge that down a bit- I understand a lot of the components from the 305 will bolt up to a 350, so would it be possible to say, buy a short block instead and just transfer parts over?

 

Yes, a short block would work.

 

the heads are different size wise. the combustion chamber is 55cc vs 76cc, and would pretty much require you to run race gas as the compression would be over 10.5:1. that long block recomends 91 octane being 9.5:1. the valves are also smaller considerably, and with the mileage on the engine, would more than likely require a valve job, which in and of itself would be more than $300 if the heads are good. if theyre warped, thats more, and if cracked, then they need replaced. you could save and look around for used engine, but you never quite know what you are going to get. prices through common rebuilders like jasper cost even more for a reman stock engine