i have a 91 rs with rear drums and front discs and i just put new duralast c-max ceramic pads on the front and i took it out and it pulls to the left as im driving and when i brake it pulls to the right it didnt do this before i put the pads on and i checked them out and everything seems normal. i can also smell them burning at times and it feels like my brakes are restricting my acceleration. can someone give me some advice on what might be going on?

 

Did you also replace the rotors? Or did you just slap the pads on and use the old rotors that are glazed, with a built-up ridge of rust on the inner and outer edges where they then grab the new pads and make the wheels pull one way or another?
That, or one of your calipers may be hanging up.

 

i didnt think about that... that makes sense but what explains the vibration at higher speeds and the wump wump wump sound. that just started when i changed the pads

 

have the rotors milled or replace them. the noise is probably from being overheated and caused them to warp. best bet it just replace them. also, make sure you use a lot of lube on the sliders so they dont hang up. if they were dragging severe enough to affect acceleration, chances are you may have even overheated the bearings too. check everything out, make sure the bearings dont have play or are burned looking.

 

my rotors look almost new and my old pads probably had around 6 months left on them i dont understand how i got all this by just changing the pads

 

Because if all you did was put on new pads and did nothing else, you didn't give the pads an opportunity to "break in" with the rotors. If your rotors look to be in real good shape, you can dress them down with sandpaper. I sometimes use a drum sander attachment that chucks into my drill. Give it just enough to rough up the surface. You're not trying to mill it down, or you'll wind up gouging ridges into them. And make sure you knock off any build up of rust that's beyond where the pad grabs. If your "wump wump" is still there, it's most likely a warped rotor and would need to be replaced. Today's rotors usually don't have enough extra material to be ground down and still stay within specs. Plus replacement rotors are a relatively inexpensive jump as compared to paying to have the old ones ground. Just don't buy the cheap China crap ones from AutoZone, or you'll be doing this again in less than a year.

 

i got some new info.... the pulling is getting better but the vibration dosent come until the pads are heated up and it seems to be getting better but they still smell

 

With using old rotors "as is" with new pads, you're not guaranteed that both sides are going to grab equally since they wore down with the old pads. If your rotor(s) are warped, you would feel a pulsing in the brake pedal. If all you're getting is a vibration, I would say it's probably a poor rotor to pad contact issue.

 

i had someone look at it and they say its a sticky caliber or maybe a line from when i pushed the piston back to change the pads i got something dirty. so he gave me a price to change both calibers and lines for $257 i think its **** cant i just take everything back apart clean everything up and bleed the lines and put new fluid in it and put it back together

 

Yes you can, and I would try that first. Hopefully you didn't hurt anything when you pushed the piston back. You did have the reservoir cover off when you did that so the brake fluid could flow back?
Empty the old fluid out of the reservoir. I use a syringe, but use what you have to. Clean it out real well, and fill with new fluid. Then with the reservoir cover still off, open the bleeder on the passenger side caliper, attach a small hose, and let it gravity feed into a container until it runs clean. Do the same on the drivers side. Then bleed the brakes. If your old fluid was cruddy, it would be a good idea to bleed the backs as well. If that's the plan, do the gravity feed and bleed starting with the longest run to the shortest...right rear-left rear-right front-left front.