1986 Camaro converted - Undriven since 1993
I just inherited a car that hasn't been driven since 1993.
It was my fathers car. It's a 1986 Camaro Z28. It's rather unique and that it was a prototype for the convertible models of Camaros which followed in 1987. This car means alot to me. I only drove it a few times when I lived at home in the late 80's. Dad last drove it in 1993 when he parked it for the last time.
I intend to get it back to driving condition. But I'm trying to anticipate what to expect. This is what I know.
The oil was last changed in 1990. The car had about 9,000 miles on it. I know this because it was the last time I drove it and was doing Dad a favor right before I moved out and started my adult life.
Car was last driven in 1993. Currently has 11,500 miles on it. It has 3/4 tank of fuel. It's a 305 V8. Fuel wasn't stabilized and it was Valvoline regular Dino oil that was available in 1990. I has been kept in a garage all these years.
I'm expecting to have to replaced all the rubber parts, fuel lines, fuel tank, fuel pump, carburetor, all belts.
Any advice on what else to expect? What's that fuel and oil going to look like?
Thanks! (btw my old ID on here is dman4384. Not sure why I can't access it anymore)
It was my fathers car. It's a 1986 Camaro Z28. It's rather unique and that it was a prototype for the convertible models of Camaros which followed in 1987. This car means alot to me. I only drove it a few times when I lived at home in the late 80's. Dad last drove it in 1993 when he parked it for the last time.
I intend to get it back to driving condition. But I'm trying to anticipate what to expect. This is what I know.
The oil was last changed in 1990. The car had about 9,000 miles on it. I know this because it was the last time I drove it and was doing Dad a favor right before I moved out and started my adult life.
Car was last driven in 1993. Currently has 11,500 miles on it. It has 3/4 tank of fuel. It's a 305 V8. Fuel wasn't stabilized and it was Valvoline regular Dino oil that was available in 1990. I has been kept in a garage all these years.
I'm expecting to have to replaced all the rubber parts, fuel lines, fuel tank, fuel pump, carburetor, all belts.
Any advice on what else to expect? What's that fuel and oil going to look like?
Thanks! (btw my old ID on here is dman4384. Not sure why I can't access it anymore)
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what you said plus I would do all the soft parts on the brakes. even the flexible hoses as this point. Personally I would do rebuild kits on everything to keep it original. You may want to research the gas tanks, hoses pretty much anything that can be seen.
Trans fluid would be less then optimal and could cause issues over time. Also verify the rear lube level and service as soon as you can. The posi rear like it conditioner and the rear wheel seals could be short on life.
IMO there are three classification of parts, Cheap China made stuff (may or may not work), Good parts that are as good or better then the factory made and the most expensive type, the ones experts can not tell if its not factory. On this car it may be worth it to buy the latter That does not mean you can't put mid level parts on for now knowing it should be replaced before the car is sold. I would be tempted to get eyes on the inside of the tanks. I have seen varnished tanks not rust. Even if it is rusted you could send it out for sealing. This would allow you to keep the original tank. Show grade gas tanks can get pricey.
The difference is value of a car with 11,500 miles on that has had normal maintenance and a car that a pro thinks looks like it just pulled off the production line is pretty dramatic.
Course if you never plan to sell it, who cares.
Trans fluid would be less then optimal and could cause issues over time. Also verify the rear lube level and service as soon as you can. The posi rear like it conditioner and the rear wheel seals could be short on life.
IMO there are three classification of parts, Cheap China made stuff (may or may not work), Good parts that are as good or better then the factory made and the most expensive type, the ones experts can not tell if its not factory. On this car it may be worth it to buy the latter That does not mean you can't put mid level parts on for now knowing it should be replaced before the car is sold. I would be tempted to get eyes on the inside of the tanks. I have seen varnished tanks not rust. Even if it is rusted you could send it out for sealing. This would allow you to keep the original tank. Show grade gas tanks can get pricey.
The difference is value of a car with 11,500 miles on that has had normal maintenance and a car that a pro thinks looks like it just pulled off the production line is pretty dramatic.
Course if you never plan to sell it, who cares.
Last edited by Gorn; Dec 27, 2021 at 03:14 PM.
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