How hard/expensive would it be to fix or remove & replace the lip around the body shell for the hatch. Underneath the weatherstripping has started to rust away, the whole bottom lip is rusted away and going past the lip into the body and is now traveling up the sides. I didn't even know the rust was there until I was checking the weatherstripping. Thanks

 

Pics would help

 

If you have that much rust in that area, I would expect other parts of the body have it too. One word......EXPENSIVE.

 

No pics because I sold the car, showing the new owners the rust first. But I miss it and thinking of buying back if I can. Because it is a 1992 5.7 B4C triple black with no cuts in the interior. Most of the rest of the car was pretty solid.

 

There is no way we can give you a cost. When dealing with rust the extent of the damage can be hidden depending how the rust started.

Example.: Lets say you have a large rust area, a nice 6" dia with no hole. I start grinding. Once I grind I end up with a 1/4" hole in the middle of where the rust was. I would end up patching an 1" to 2" area just to make sure I had good metal to weld too. This rust started from a chip in the paint and it rust from the outside of the car. Same 6" area that rusted from the inside of the car could require a 10"+ patch or and entire pannel replacment along with internal support structure.

That is two repairs that look very simular before grinding one is a $500 repair out the door the other could be $2500 to fix right. I have had customers come in with "just a bubble" on a fender lip that ended up with a bunch of metal work and $1500 repair bill.

For most body work there is an old saying "If it looks right it is right" this does not apply to weather stripping areas. Those repairs need to be right. Water leaks can be a pain but so can air leaks.

You really need to look the car over in great detail. As stated above rust is rarely just in one spot. As rust flakes and fall away they tend to fall onto other surfaces so if the spot has rusted thru I am pretty sure anything right under where the rust fell is rusting also.

Maybe this would help, If I was at an auction and I was looking at 3rd gens. If there was one with the rust you decribed and one that ran into something and needed a new front nose and hood, As long at the wrecked car was rust free and without frame damage I would take wrecked car over the rusty hatch car. With the wrecked car I know what I am getting.

 

Thanks for the replies everyone, I really appreciate the explanation Gorn. I seem to have been lucky to sell it. Just thought it might be worth it for the B4C option, but I guess it would not be for me.

 

Make sure on the next one you are thinking of buying, crawl under there and slap an eye ball on it.