Diagnostic machine said intake air temp sensor was bad (The one in the intake beside the goose neck that tells the computer more or less fuel until the engine reached desired temp) I changed it, cleared the code and there was zero change in the smoke. I started unhooking vac lines and sensors, plugging lines, unhooked the EGR, etc trying to make the car run different or smoke more/less and nothing I do makes any difference in anything. All I could get to happen was the check engine light to go on and off. I'm not ruling out valve seals BUT IF it were the seals wouldn't it have smoked at least a little before I took the cat off. The car could set in the garage for weeks and when I cranked it up it wouldn't puff a hint of smoke, now it won't stop. I was going to just put the cat back on but I fill like thats just a band aid on a bigger problem to come. What do ya'll think?

 

Bad valve seals will not make the car smoke white. Bad valve seals is typically a little blue smoke on start up, or under a heavy load. If it is indeed coolant smoke, it should make no difference in cat vs. not cat, same goes for valve seat. You need to verify if indeed you are running rich. If you have a friend that has diagnostic tools, hook up a stoich and see where you are at. Under open loop mode all sensors will be sending information back to the computer to adjust A/F & timing. So, first off, clear all your codes and verify the following: 1. Stoich 2. Coolant loss 3. Nothing in or on the exhaust that could cause smoke. Once that is done, let us know.

 

I'm calling him tomorrow. I got so ticked off at it today I just covered it up and walked away. I'm going to print off you post and take it with me. I'll let you know. THANK YOU!!

 

Sometimes blue smoke, black smoke might appear whitish when in sunlight. My gut feeling is your engine is running rich. Like djs said you need to clear the codes. When service engine soon light comes on, pull the codes. Have you marked your reservior and see if you are loosing coolant? Does your car seem to be sucking gas in a bad way??

 

please,dont throw it away!! i looked all over AND paid big bucks for mine,someone had removed every piece of it

 

I have not marked the resevior just eye balling it and have not seen any noticable drop. I have not slept in a week trying to figure this thing out and last night I thought what if it not a sensor issue but a throttle body/injector problem. I would get the same rich burning and that might explain why when yesterday I was unplugging sensors, vac lines, etc I wasn't seeing any difference. Just trying to think outside the box. I'm still going to get it hooked up to the diagnostic today if he can get me in. I'll let you know but chew on that TB/injector idea. Ive never been a computer/sensor/fuel injector car person so I'm just thinking. Give me a big block and a big ol' Holley and I'll build you a mean street car.

 

There is a possibility that the throttle body or injectors aren't working properly, but I think unplugging the sensors won't do anything unless the car is at operating temperature.

 

I hear ya. I was an old school gear head back in the day, but now I have to deal with sensors and bs. I have changed sensors that I suspected were the culprit, and fixed the problems so far.

 

My buddy's diagnostic machine is not fancy enough but he knew some one who has what I need. I dropped the car off today but it will be next week before I get it back, Sit tight and I'll let you know what the problem is/hopefull WAS. Thanks guys!

 

to elminate coolant, you can just spend $25 on a pressure tester. pump it up to 16 psi and let it sit. crank it over in the morning with fuel and spark diasabled, and see what plugs are wet