i think it turned out good. im still going to repaint the whole car in the summer at which time ill sand off this paint along with the rest of the paint on the car and give the shop a bare metal...and some parts fiberglass....medium to work with.

you like?

 

gir not sure why the images didnt post but heres links

<a href="http://s56.photobucket.com/albums/g197/RammsteinRx/?action=view&current=1016081705.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g197/RammsteinRx/1016081705.jpg" border="0" alt="second shot of repainted hood"></a>

<a href="http://s56.photobucket.com/albums/g197/RammsteinRx/?action=view&current=1016081705a.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g197/RammsteinRx/1016081705a.jpg" border="0" alt="repainted hood"></a>

 

nevermind. fixed it

 

Oooo Stealth Black.
My brother wants his whole car a satin to eggshell black.
If your car has not been repainted a number of times and the original paint is sticking to the car don't sand it all off to metal. Paint will stick to paint. It will not stick to bare metal. Taking it down to metal will create more unnessisary work and extra material cost.

Oh but as for the paint from a spray can. It should be taken off. Automotive paint will eat that stuff up.

 

yeah tomorrow ill put pix up of the rest of the car. but the paint has flaked off pretty bad on the nose. i might just sand the individual body panels. but it depends on my mood. i want everything to be perfect.

 

Hood looks good. I agree with MadMikeZ28 if at all possable don't take it to bare metal i made that mistake with my old truck on a small dent i sanded it down before a gave it to the auto body shop and the price was double than what they quoted just for all the metal prep.

 

i just need to pay for the supplies. not the labor. so im not too worried about it

 

I have seen so many post before where people will tell you that you need to sand it down all the way to metal for paint. Or you need to prime the whole thing. Well spot repair is proof that you do NOT need to do all that extra work.

But if you have flaking I would sand all, of what ever layer is flaking, off. Like say your clear coat is flaking on the bumper. Don't try to feather edge it, just sand all the clear off. You will go through paint but just worry about the clear that is flaking. Reason being is if one area on that panel is not adhearing, even if it were to feather out you don't know how well the rest of the paint or clear is gonna stick later on.
But say you had flaking on a quarter panel it would be a judgement call. You might not want to strip off all the material from the quarter and the roof and other quarter since they are all connected. So you would sand and feather as best as possible the area and spot prime.
What ever you do, don't pick up a haynes manual andopen it to the body repair section to learn from it.

 

lmao. will do. but yeah. the front clip ill probably sand bare. but the rest ill do like you said. just feather

 

Actually, if you plan on paying any decent amount of money (or time) on a paint job, you would be best off removing ALL the paint down to the primer. Most of the third gen Camaro year models (I have one too), as well as other GM models, had some serious clearcoat deteoriating problems, as well as terrible primer-to-color adhesion issues, which causes the paint to come off in flakes, or even sheets. Painting over what is already on the car will only give you a paint job that is as strong as the original paint, which isn't strong at all. You'll wind up having the old paint still flaking off, and taking the new paint off with it. The only way to do these the right way is to completely remove the factory paint.