Oil choice's
#2
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you are going to get as many answers as if you asked what they feel like having to drink.
the question has been asked a ton of times and search comes back with 499 threads with oil in the query
if you are asking synthetic vs regular oil then there is a wealth of info on the net about that.
As for forum members, you will get opinions and we all have opinions
#5
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I have found in my travels that the quality of the oil change (getting as much of the old dirty oil out as possible, which means doing it yourself) and the frequency is more important than what goes in as far as brand.
Oil is oil, the main differences as I have learned it is additives, and the synthetic vs. conventional debate.
I use 10W-30 Valvoline Conventional in my S10, it has 145XXX miles. After I break in my new motor on the Camaro, I'm probably going to be using full synthetic, though.
Oil is oil, the main differences as I have learned it is additives, and the synthetic vs. conventional debate.
I use 10W-30 Valvoline Conventional in my S10, it has 145XXX miles. After I break in my new motor on the Camaro, I'm probably going to be using full synthetic, though.
#6
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Valvoline 20/50, Synthetic in the racecar.
Valvoline 20/50 in the C10, pull truck, 10:1 copression
Valvoline 10/40 in the foreign stuff.
Cheapest I can find in 86 Firebird. It is getting a new
engine in the next months or two.
Valvoline 20/50 in the C10, pull truck, 10:1 copression
Valvoline 10/40 in the foreign stuff.
Cheapest I can find in 86 Firebird. It is getting a new
engine in the next months or two.
#7
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"Oil" is not "Oil". Take a 10w-30 oil as an example. With a conventional oil, the base stock is 10 grade. It has a VI improver additive that thickens the oil as it gets hot. You may have heard of viscosity breakdown? That's the VI additive wearing down and losing it's thicker oiling properties. The synthetic oil already starts out as a 30 grade oil, but has the thickness of 10, and it has no VI improver to break down. Another advantage of synthetic oil is in extreme cold weather climates. It doesn't honey up like conventional oil will, which can make the difference between having a starting engine over a non starting one. Also, using a straight weight oil, such as 30w, is way too thick for initial start up, it will actually cause more wear on the engine. That's another principle of multi-grade oils, the oil wants to be thinner at start up.
#9
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my dd calls for 5-30 or 10-30. i run 10-30 mobil super (used to be mobil clean 5000). i ran 10-40 mobil super in my blazer for 60k miles. when i pulled the head off to do head gaskets at 190k, there was no sludge at all. none. and the previous owner had it for 15k miles and never changed the oil. my fiance's car calls for 10-30, but we run 10-40 to keep the lifters quiet. i run 10-40 in my car for right now but will start 15-40 for the summer once i put an oil cooler on it. anything that higher mileage, i will step up one weight rating than what the factory calls for. and i dont use synthetic in anything, however my bike will be getting synthetic now