I appreciate everyone sticking with me on this. Please keep coming up with ideas. As far as a stuck valve, That would have any effect on wether or not I had spark I don't think. And my car started and ran fine, then one day I went out to start it, and no spark. So the distributor has to be perfect, and on center with tdc because I havn't removed it and it ran as is perfectly. My firing order is correct as well.

 

So you're saying that you have NO spark when cranking the engine over with the key in the start position. Sounds more like your ignition switch is the problem then. Try jumping a hot wire from the battery directly to the power supply wire on the distributor, then see what happens when you try to start the engine with the key. Have you tested for power at the dist. when the key is in the start position?

 

Exactly, I tested it with the key in run postion and power is present, as well as in the start position (engine turning over) and it also had sufficiant power. I'm kinda wondering about that chilton's tree thing though, because according to it, my ignintion module is bad. I'm wondering If my ground my be bad somwhere because I tested the power at my "secondary" as chilton calls it, it's really just a little ball thing that carries the power from the coil to the peice that spins and dirstributes the power and anyway I had no power at it. I think I have a bad ground somwhere. So I wonder if I ran a wire from the ground spade to a ground on the engine bay if it might spark.

 

so it has the coil on top of the distibutor? if so make sure the carbon **** is in correctly and is in good condition and make sure its making contact with the center of rotor (little piece that spins) and the outlet to the coil.

 

I replaced the carbon button on saturday. I just got back from napa and had my new ignition module that I bought about a week ago tested and it tested bad two out of three times, so they gave me a new one that they tested three times and it tested good all three, and I installed it and it still doesn't work, although there doesn't seem to be any backfire.

 

take the cap off and check for cracks or carbon tracks on the inside, if u or someone have taken the rotor off, check to make sure its on the right way. have u turned it over to make sure the rotor is turning.

 

Yeah I checked it to see if it was turning over. I took the coil out of the cap yesterday and hooked it up then put a electrical tester on the metal part that the carbon button is fed from. I then turned the engine over and measured the volts directly off the coil, and I had a healthy 9-10 volts, then I put the coil back in the cap and tested the volts at the carbon button and there was no volts at all. Am I doing somthing wrong, the coil works, and the carbon button is new.

 

sure sounds like something is missing. are u geting the spring in there right?

 

I believe I do but maybe not, I put the button or ball facing the rotor and the spring facing the coil, then the gasket over the spring,

 

its been a while sence i messed with one of these distributors. gasket over the spring? make sure there is not anything between the connections. sping and coil and button and rotor. i cant find my old repair manual i had for my old truck that had this dizzy in it. see if u can find a break down on the coil to the dizzy if u have a manual.