If he didn't disconnect the wire, and turned the distributor the base timing would change he just wouldn't know it, which could run it hotter if he went to far. Also might explain why it runs so poorly.

 

Radiator is flowing good. The air flow panels are all there. Surprisingly I didnt know camaro's had them . I thought that was a vette thing. And yes, I did disconnect the distributor wire before I put the car in time. The only place I see where I am losing coolant. Is the "puke jug". The temp gauge likes to hang around 220. But sometimes it gets into the red at 260. And the other night. It really scared me because I wasnt paying the guage any attention. BAD mistake. It was WAYYY HOTTER than any engine should even be able to run . If you look on the temp guage. Where it actually tells you that its the temp guage .... the little icon w/ a buoy w/ water. The needle was actually right there. Then when I stopped to get water to pour on it aswell as letting it set for a good while. NOTE : the only place I poured water was on the radiator. But just before I could even get to a complete stop the valves started clattering as if it was SERIOUSLY out of time and no oil. Before I stopped it shut off on me. After letting it kool down. I checked the oil and I added a little. I am kinda getting the impression that I have a cracked head. As much as I hope to say it. But atleast I have some spare heads that came off of a 350 . And those have been shaved down but im not sure how far. Saying that this is the worst case senorio. Will shaven 350 heads still work ?I'll try to upload pics of the engine . There may be a slight leak from the intake manifold.

Could the water pump going out be in question ? Should I replace it and see if that fixes it ?

Thx ,

Chris

 

The point your at now, you need to find out if the engine is damaged. A few ways to do that.

Chemical test of the coolant. Allow some coolant to get out of the radiator. Get someone or somewhere that has a tester and just check to see if exhaust gases are escaping into the coolant because of a cracked head or gasket, or worse, a block problem. Easy test to do, the chemical testers are at most parts stores. Most repair shops should know what your asking for also and it doesn't take much effort to do.

Up the ladder, pressure check the system. Apply a good 15lbs. of pressure threw a hand pump connected to the top of the radiator. You'll possibly find leaks, and again you may get some coolant loss into the engine. If it won't hold pressure for a decent amount of time, and there are no leaks, I'd suspect a internal leak.

More work, you could pull the plugs and pressure test the cylinders. This would find the specific side or both that has issues. With a compression tester hooked up you could roll the motor over to valve closed posistion of each cylinder, pressurize them with compressed air (about 100lbs.) and see if you start seeing bubbles or air escaping threw the top of the radiator.

The chem test is the easiest, do it first. If the blue liquod turns to yellow you've got a sick motor. If the chem test is good I'd think your coolant system has a weak point in it. If it where my car I'd do the other tests to be sure. Pump or Radiator could be like the likely culprit if all the other tests are ok. Check out the pump first, it's the easier and the cheaper. Look from underneath and see if the weep hole is moist. Someone else mentioned this, this hole will allow coolant to seep out and is the first sign of a pump going south.

Good luck.

 

I'll do that as soon as I get the chance. But still is it possible about what I said about the heads if say the problem is a cracked head ?

thx,
Chris

 

Well man if it is the fan not turning on which happened to my third gen and a few i know we all put an adjustable temp circuit in they sell them at parts store all u gotta do is put a copper line in the upper radiator hose....and lack of power deal i hate to say the easiest thing but try changing you oil i know my car loss's alot if the oils getting old thats how i know **** gotta do the oil and my dads got a 305 in hsi truck and he says the same thing happens to him...unbelievable i know but try that....also try the oxy sensor since its loading up on fuel could just gotten carboned up alittle and not sending the right signal happened to me when ym air to fuel gague grounded itself out car ran choppy......sorry for the long post but i hope this helps you out alittle.......

 

I suggest you put the thermostat back. Without the restriction caused by the thermostat, the coolant moves too fast to absorb and release heat effectively.

 

The fan runs with no problems after I installed the new fan motor. And there's a slight problem w/ putting the thermostat back . I am 50-60 miles from home. I stay with a friend during college days and go home on the weekends. And the thermostat is at my house. And yes I will admit I am prob over a good 5000 miles for an oil change. So when I get the car home. I'll change the oil and filter aswell as putting the thermostat back in.
Also I have read that putting 350 heads on a 305 lowers the compression ratio. Is this true ? I didn't put the heads on myself nor did I rebuild the engine . It was like that when I bought it. Excluding all the problems I'm having out of it. When I first got it . That car would run like a scaulded dog. Say If, I had a cracked head. Would it decrease in power dramatically ? Or would you barely even notice it ?

thanks again for all your help!

Chris

 

With the heads, it will all depend on what Gen they are and if they will bolt correctly with the intake. Shaved to far, with the style of intake the late 80's had you will have fitment problems.

As z28pete said, get the T-stat back in, and they are cheap, go buy one of them instead of a six-pack of Shlitz.

Compression ratio wise it again, all depends. What casting number they are, the size of the chambers.

 

I think i mention check the weep hole on the water pump! and very bad not to have a T- Stat that will definately make it run hotter. And the reply about pressure checking the radiator, he is correct that will tell you if the head gasket has failed they also make a flourescent dye, that with a blacklight shining under the engine will show all the possible crack and or leaks. You should get the red dipstick for letting your oil run without changing it, oil dissapates heat unless the viscosity has broken down, was it milky looking or a brownish color is so! water in the crankcase. You might want to pull that motor and find a decent 350 to dump in place.

 

i was told by my dad that the heads shouldnt drop the compression ratio and if does it wouldnt be by much. but say it does ...is that a good thing ?

thx alot for all your help.

And the other night the radiator blew . I now have a big hole on the driver side endcap of the radiator.

Chris