im pullin the motor this weekend i think. Im gona go a top end rebuild. Im only pulling it to make my life easier. Im lookin for a carb, manifold ( with egr) and cam kit. I was thinkin about a 650 carb or so, and keepit edelbrock if i can. Ive had great luck with their carbs forwhat ill be useing it for. I think im gona keep the heads that are on it, but i dont know what it could safely handle in terms of lift. so i need to keep it somewhat mild, but the wilder the better. Ive got till sepetember before i can drive this thing on the road so im doing a few things. Ive noticed some heads have the ability to go centerbold, AND the standard flange bolt type, are all heads this way? if not i can always pull the valve covers off have a look. i ASSUME it is easier to take the engine out to change a cam? or is it easier to leave the engine in? if it is, ill leave it in. i need to know what senors i can get rid of that are on the block. Ill put a plug in those holes. And what about my gauges and cruise control? will taking the ECM out affect these things at all? If i dont have my cruise that wont really matter, i rarely use it anyway. Is there such a thing as an AC delete pully? im gona ditch the AC too, again, its another thing i never use and getting rid of it would clean up the engine bay a lot. But i have checked it and it works VERY VERY well. If anybody is interested in it let me know. But just another thing to remember, i need to keep all of my emissions crap, ALL of it... im thinking ill ditch the serpentine belt system and go with the v-belt. that way i can not power the air pump untill i go in for state inspection, then i put it back on, same with the air cleaner. Sorry for the long post, but any and all information here would be great. thanks.

 

on most cars it its easier to take off the front bumper, rad support and rad to do the camm swap, but unfortunally for us our front ends are weld assembly and are more pain then their worth to work around, especially if your going to carbed. the gauges are easy, you should be the old style gauges still, which case its just a matter of putting the sensors back in spot, the old style the comp didnt matter a bit, at worst your check engine light might come on but just ditch the bulb for it. not sure about the new style but im pretty sure in thinking they were only 90-92. as far as ditching the ac, yeah they make a ac delete setup, easiest way to find it is junkyard, not sure if if moved the idler pully or it had a delete pully but easy find at any junkyard with 2-3 3rd gens sitting there, not sure as mine was ac delete from factory and is now vbelt. again if your going v-belt, realy easy swap with a air gun(realy helps for the alternator) and you can get your pullys easy and cheap at a junkyard, fortunally for me i didnt have to do the air pump as mine is emissions exempt(v6 autos didnt come with a air pump in 87, so they make perfect v8 swap cars.)

as far as carb, 600cfm is the smallest i would go on either a edle or holley. 650 or 700 would be my personal choice for any kind of mild performance build. and a manifold to check out, edlebrock torker II intakes, rather cheap(99.99 base price) and ive been very happy with mine, mines mild built 350, built for torque and for a low to mild build its a good intake, gives you more money for the other things without sacraficing much

 

yea, i need to try and find out what i have on my 68 chevy, as far as manifolds go, i know its an edel, but just what kind, i couldnt tell ya. but that thing has more torque than i know what to do with. But yeai wanted to stay with a 650 carb, not to low, but not so high that i will be using to much gas. I want to stay away from holly for a street car, i know they are good carbs, but everybody i know that has used them went back to an edle for a street car, now drag or stip, yea id go holly. but again, this is gona be my daily driver again when i get her back together.

 

yeah good choice, holleys are good carbs on the right setup, problem with holleys is they need tuned more often tha most people want to do for a daily driver. also if you do want to keep your ac edlebrock makes a kit for it. and one thing i forgot to tell you about the torkerII intakes, they are single plain intakes, which means better air(imo) but you loss some corning ability, its nothing you probably going to notice with a daily driver, unless you start taking sharp corners at 80mph.

 

yea, i was thinkin corners at about 140 sounds good. lol.

 

your not gonna pass emissions with a cam/carb so mise well ditch the emissions stuff

 

i cant, it needs to be there, working or not... part of the state inspection.