Idling and Charging issues.

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  #1  
Old 03-01-2011, 01:21 PM
McGnrAcDcfan227's Avatar
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Default Idling and Charging issues.

Hey Guys,

So the 305 finally got dusted off yesterday, and I'd like to get her ready for the summer, but before she'll be drivable, I've got to work out a couple kinks.
1. When the Engine is at Idle, and I shift into Drive, the Rpms drop way down and it stalls out. Due to advice from my grandfather, I've been chasing the mythical timing bug, but this happens no matter where I set it. Does the T/v cable need adjusting?

2. Something in the electrical system is drawing current, even when the key is off, to th point where if the battery is fully charged, and the car sits overnight, it wont have enough power to start in the morning.

3. Is there anyway to adjust the tach? Because mine reads 2200 at idle but the motor sounds like its alot lower.
 
  #2  
Old 03-01-2011, 01:44 PM
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I've had a 91, so can relate to part of what you're asking.
1. The TV cable may need adjusting, but it has nothing to do with the engine killing. Check it if you haven't yet, as proper adjustment is key to good shifts and transmission longevity.
2. You're going to have to hunt down your gremlin. First, I would have the battery load tested to make sure it doesn't have a bad cell. Then pull one fuse at a time for your accessories and see if the battery survives the night with one of them out. Does your car have an aftermarket alarm? Those can sometimes go haywire and drain the battery.
3. Welcome to the 3rd gen Camaro, more factory tachs go bad like that than not. Mine read double, but it did keep my math skills well polished.
 
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Old 03-01-2011, 03:28 PM
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I would agree with 69, but I'll go a step further.

1. TV cable will have nothing to do with idle. What year is your car? carb, FI?

2. The faster way to check for amp draw is to 1st, load test the battery. Then once you determine the battery is good take a multimeter and put it to DC amps and disconnect the positive cable from the battery, remove one fuse at a time, then connect the circuit via the multi-meter, this will identify what circuit is drawing amps. Most likely it will be a relay....

3. I agree with 69 on his tach post.....
 
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Old 03-01-2011, 04:20 PM
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Thanks for the help guys, I'll defiantly have to go bug hunting tomorrow, the car is a 92 with a 700r4 and tbi, any idea what the stalling might be caused by?
 
  #5  
Old 03-01-2011, 06:48 PM
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Does it stall out if you put it in reverse and/or a low gear (1st). That will determine whether or not it's a torque converter locking up when it shouldn't be issue or not.
 
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Old 03-01-2011, 06:52 PM
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Originally Posted by djs383
2. The faster way to check for amp draw is to 1st, load test the battery. Then once you determine the battery is good take a multimeter and put it to DC amps and disconnect the positive cable from the battery, remove one fuse at a time, then connect the circuit via the multi-meter, this will identify what circuit is drawing amps. Most likely it will be a relay....
I'll go a step further with your further step...in the morning, before you start the engine, feel the alternator to see if it's warm, and put an ear to it to listen for any whiny noise. Make sure the doors are closed and key off to so you aren't causing any current draw. Alternators have been known to go bad (short) and cause a battery drain.
 

Last edited by Camaro 69; 03-01-2011 at 06:54 PM.
  #7  
Old 03-01-2011, 06:58 PM
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does the idle change when cold or hot, a/c on or off? sounds more like a bad iac valve
 
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