So the big question is should I drop the exhaust, rear and gas tank to change the fuel pump or is it OK to cut a hatch in the trunk?

I see instructions on the internet on how to cut the hole but is that a good idea and has anyone here done it before?

 

i have pulled the tank it's a pain with out a hoist. cutting a hole is dumb i think that sending unit is a expensive piece i know i messed up the sending unit. but it is still your choice.

 

DO NOT CUT HOLES IN UR CAR MAN
if u cant do it ur self with a manual, and u dont know anyone that can help u, take it to a respected garage
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Quote:

ORIGINAL: Arizona Camaro
is it OK to cut a hatch in the trunk?

Haha, now thats ghetto riging it right there.

 

i actualy heard a lot of people do that to there camaros so they dont gota take off there exaust pipes and what ever so its easier to cut the hatch i heard

 

I actually did cut a hole to access the fuel pump. So much easier if you remove the carpet, and cut a small square away. Instead of dropping the tank and removing parts you don't have to. Once i was finished i fabed up a piece of metal that fitted over the hole that i cut and screwed it down with sheat metal screws and then bondo it. You can't even tell what i did, and if for some strange reason the pumps goes bad again i just scrape the body filler off and unscrew the plate and i have full access again.

 

Have you seen my car?...

I mean, It doesn't have a windshield and it's been sitting out like that for 5 years.
(not a big deal when it only rains 6 times in 5 years but still)

 

I just recently replaced the pump on my 91 RS, so let me tell you how I did it. Refer to pictures below. I read in a couple ofdifferent places on how some have replaced the pumpby cutting through the "trunk" area. I figured that would be easier than taking the whole rear of the car apart. I first saw that the tank rests fairly close to the body, so I lowered the tank as much as possible till it rested on the panhard bar. I put a water soaked towel on top of the tank (cutting close to the tank gave me the creeps!) and cut a smaller access hole in the floor with an air cut-off tool. I then marked off where I wanted the final cut to be (approx 5"x11.5") and cut the hole as you see it. After removing the lock ring, I lifted the sending unit as far as it would go, but there wasn't enough maneuvering room to wiggle it out. So I dropped the two suspension bars under the tank, dropped the tank down even more, but still nowhere near the room I needed. You will notice there are 4 hard lines coming from the tank, and there is nothing flexible about them. Theyhead to the back, over to the drivers side and drop down almost to the bottom of the tank. The problem is, you need to lift the sending unit straight up some, then tilt it on an angle towards you and continue lifting straight out. There was NO WAY it was going to come out without either cutting the lines, or cutting another access at the back heading to the drivers side of the body, neither of which I wanted to do. If I was tocut towards the left, I would have beencutting through the reinforcement in the floor that is part of the tank mounting bracket, another thing I didn't want to do. As a side note: if you do cut the lines, be sure to at least flare the larger supply line and use a flare connector. That's a high pressure line, and there is a reason thatline has a flare connection on it at the end. Just slapping it back together with a hose and clamps isan explosion waiting to happen! By now, I already had so much taken apart, that it would have been less work to just do it the right way in the first place. You need to jack the back way up as you see mine, remove practically everything, even the springs. The only thing left holding the rearend in place is the two control arm bolts.I made a panel, siliconed and screwed it down, and it looks like it belongs there. With the carpeting back in place, nobody but me knows it's there. If nothing else, I now have easy access to the sending unit wiring connection. With the hard lines that are connected to the unit, there is ABSOLUTELY NO WAY for that thing to come out of the access hole while still leaving everything in place. After all I went through, my advice is to bite the bullet, drop it down and do it the right way! And besides, dropping the tank will give you the opportunity to flush out any crap that's in there.

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I did mine and double flared the pressure and return line joined with a flare union. About 8 months after that the fuel pump gave out and I was glad that I had easy access to it again. IMO if you do it right and take steps to insure your fuel lines don't leak and fab the sheet metal properly, it's well worth it. This is just my experience.

 

how do you loosen and remove the ring around the sending unit, thats were I had my troubles?


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