I have a 92 Camaro RS 305 and it’s doesn’t want to stay running if you put it in drive after it has been warmed up. So we take it for a spin down the street to the store or friends house and when we leave the car dies as soon as we put it in drive. Any suggestions?

 

Try thirdgen.org. They are amazing and can help too

 

moved your thread to the third gen section for you. check fuel pressure, check spark plugs and plug wires. quick way to check wires. find a very dark place, garage at night, place with not street lights, start car, open hood and look around plug wires for spark leaking from wires. I've done this and the wires looked like a light show. oh and welcome to the forum.

 

Above are all good suggestions I would call your situation "engine stall when first put under load. at running temp" This is one of the worst condition to try and diagnose on a forum or over the phone.because there are so many things it can be. For a good mechanic narrowing what could be wrong can be pretty quick if he has the right tools and knows how to use them.

There are two ways this can go, people start yelling out parts they think can cause it and you get lucky or you spend a ton of money nothing is any better and you have made it harder for the mechanic because now he may have to deal with a defective part. We use the term "parts canon" for cars like these and we end up hating them, The only parts you should think about replacing are maintenance parts that are over due to be replaces.

Just to give you and Idea of what I am talking about here is my list of things that can cause your issue, I am not including maintenance items. .

Bad map sensor
Weak coil
Weak or leaking EGR valve
Weak fuel pump
Stretched timing chain
Air temp sensor
Coolant temp sensor
O2 sensor
Vacuum leak to one or two cylinders
Cracked or broken vacuum lines.
Bad injector(s)
Worn distributor
Timing at distributes slipped
and for almost everything I listed add bad connector or damaged wire.

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"A stretched timing chain" - if viewing the timing marks and pointer and turning crankshaft by hand, how many degrees would be considered stretched?

 

Doesn't matter much in this situation. A stretched timing chain can make the timing waver, but isn't going to make the engine kill unless it jumped some teeth or breaks. But then, the timing would be off the same when the engine is cold. Any clanging/knocking engine noise when the engine is idling, that goes away when giving it the throttle? That's one sign of a bad chain.
Having had one of these models, my first hunch is the fuel pump going out. Unfortunately, there isn't a simple fuel pressure check on these since the TBI isn't a fuel rail w/schrader valve system. You have to disconnect the fuel line where it goes into the back of the TBI and tee off with an inline pressure gauge. I'd start there myself.

 

Agree, and Thanks for the explanation.
In general, you have an engine, spark plugs out, and you turn crank CW aligning HB mark with 0°.
Now, turn crank CCW until resistance is felt. Camshaft will determine the point of stop. How many degrees is considered stretched?
A timing chain running normal will try in acquiring a 'circle' as it spins with engine running.
Timing chains, er, crank sprocket, skip from slack at engine shut down.

 

Thank you all, for all the suggestions. Yes, I would say this is tricky and hard one to diagnose for sure. The car doesn't get drive much, just during the summer months. I have replaced the intake manifold at a couple of years ago and did the Timing. A month later I changed Cap, Rotor, Plugs, and wires. It ran great for at least a year, but at the end of last summer it started with the warming up and failing to start. If we wait about 10 mins it would start with hesitation and eventually go. So that is why I rebuilt the TBI and cleaned it up, still no luck. I thought fuel pump but as Camaro 69 said their is no value to check. I don't want to dump parts into and I don't mind doing heavy troubleshooting just need a good starting point. Could it be timing? Or should I check the Pump first? Again, Thank you for your help and time

 

pick up a ignition control module and change, even if its not what it is its a good idea to have a spare. seem to fail at a bad time for me.

 

I didn't say there was no value in checking the fuel pump, just the opposite, a failing fuel pump was my first and strongest hunch.There just isn't a quick and easy way to check fuel pressure. When you have a no start, disconnect the fuel line from the TBI, and put the end of the line into a container, sealed off if you can. Now turn on the key and see if fuel shoots into the container with some force. When mine went bad, the fuel just dribbled out. That's your quickest and easiest fuel test.