Yes, EGR valve could be clogged or stuck open.
Read here: https://actron.com/sites/default/fil...lish_16152.pdf

I would check vacuum hoses/tubing to MAP sensor as heat will destroy the rubber ends and plastic tubing, if still OE equipped. MAP requires a good manifold vacuum signal.
So does the EGR valve, but it is opened and closed by the ECM at cruise.

Cleaning EGR valve, after you check vacuum plumbing and solenoid wiring, is removing the EGR valve and fill one port with gasoline and let sit. Come back and check if other port is full/wet with fuel; bad news if wet. use a new gasket when installing clean valve or a new valve.

A quick check of EGR condition, is with engine running at idle, manually lift up on the pintle rod - rod from the diaphram and engine should stumble, then upon release, smooth out - good results.

 

Thanks Everett!!! I will try out your diagnostics!!!

Last night i found a hose that connects from the MAP Sensor to a T and from there a hose connects to the Vapor Cannister.
That hose from the T to the Vapor Cannister is cracked pretty badly, also the plastic connection to the MAP sensor to the T is also cracked badly.

I also was messing with the EGR Solenoid and removed one of the vacuum hoses from the solenoid and the idle picked up in speed, so i figured the solenoid was working properly.

However, after checking that stuff out and maybe even tearing the hoses more than they already are... this morning i started my car and the idle on my car is rougher and much much much more vibration in drive when i stop at stop lights. So I think that is a good indication that my issue is the vacuum hoses and not something big like the ECM or the Vapor Cannister or issues with the intake manifold. ><

After work i plan on taking it to napa and changing out the vacuum hoses there.
I hope this is the issue. ><

 

Remove and clean the EGR valve, your car having an issue with the EGR system is a given.
The other two errors may or may not be a residual side effect of a malfunctioning EGR, but the cracked vacuum hoses could certainly be the cause as well.

 

Thank you camaro69!! i will check it out today!

I remember changing the EGR valve roughly 2 years ago.. and i changed it because the engine would stutter when i would try and accelerate. As soon as i changed it, i could accelerate perfectly and as of now, i'm still able to accerlerate perfectly.

 

So i put on the new vacuum hose. i can no longer feel air flow coming from the hose like i could with the cracked hose. I took the egr valve off... and wiped inside the one hole that it had with carb cleaner.. and wiped the inside of the holes of the throttle body.

I disconnected the battery for 2 minutes. reconnected the battery, did a diagnostics check.. and only got the 1-2 code.

I then started the car and let it run for about a minute.

i killed it and then checked the codes again, only this time
I got a code 1-2 and then a 3-3 and that was it...
So I guess i need to replace the MAP Sensor?

Camaro69 you said "33: MAP sensor voltage too high" ?
So u know i have too many volts going to it?
How do i fix that?

Also, the issue with my car right now is and always has been, every time when i start the engine.. it stutters 3 times and then revs up to a solid 1k rmp.
like dun.. dun... dun... VROOM.

and in park or neutral it feels like its going to die..
Are these symptoms of the MAP sensor?

I'm sure once i drive it around again, the egr and exhaust codes will come up again Q_Q

EGR removal and inspection 3rd generation camaro - YouTube

 

No, not the voltage to it, but the signal sent to the ECM. The MAP sensor has a vacuum hose going to it, and uses that to determine engine load (because load and vacuum level are connected) and then it sends a signal to the ECM to adjust the air/fuel supply and spark timing. Be sure to check that vacuum hose for cracks/loose connections/connected to the right spot, etc. A high voltage error (33) means there is low engine vacuum at the MAP sensor. Although it could be a faulty MAP sensor, it's not very common for them to fail.

 

After i reset the codes, i went out and drove the car around got it up to 65 MPH and didnt come home until the engine was hot.

I have checked the vacuum hoses, they all seem snug and non cracked.. There is a connector piece that is a small plastic fitting that fits in between the hoses, i'm wondering if that's the issue cutting off thorrough circulation.. i'll take a picutre of it and post it here to get a second opinion on if i need it or not. If all else fails.. i guess ill go with the MAP sensor..

 

update video. Of the connector piece from the map sensor that i was talking about.
Is that little adapter needed? or can i just connect that boot on there?

 

Definitely worth a shot trying it without that hose adapter, that may be restricting vacuum flow. I'm not positive if that even belongs there, I'd have to cheat and look at a vacuum schematic, or try to find an exploded view. Do you have a repair manual that may show the MAP sensor?

 

You're looking at something else, this is what the MAP sensor looks like.