search amazon and ebay for a factory service manual. I have one for an 89 so it's not use to you

they have all of the electrical diagrams in there and it's of great help. It helped me when I restored an 89.

 

Did you check the battery itself? Maybe it's bad

 

ive had similar issues with a car that had a bad battery. it was damaged inside and would loose connection, but when tested with both a load tester and a digital tester, it would test fine (500+ amps). stop at a junkyard, you can usually find good batteries for under $30.

 

No guys, the battery doesn't appear to be the culprit. Checked it and it was fine. Charged it on a Battery Tender and it took a minute or two to register fully charged.

I also took another battery that I was charging (and read fine) and tried that one in the car. Same thing... Nothing.

I will though conclude that previously when I said it was as dead as a door nail I was wrong. The head and tail lights do come on with the switch but that is it! No power windows, no stereo (system has no amp) no directionals, dash lights, nothing. The key chime is very faint when the door is open but that's about the gist of it.

It's getting close to a tow.

 

headlights should come on without key on. check the connections at the ignition switch. toward the bottom of the steering columm. 65 on the list here 4th Gen LT1 F-Body Tech-Component Location Views

 

And the saga continues.

Battery- Check
Ground - Check
Connections at battery and power junction box- Check
Power to fusible links at junction box AFTER the link- Check

I did verify that there was indeed an alarm system at one time since I came across a black box in the center console that had 529T on it. Apparantly something that played into your power windows.

I took the stereo out and the heater controls out to inspect all wires. All panels under dash and center console to see what I could see. And let me tell you, this kid that had it before me twisted every God@!&# wire together and finished them off with electrical tape. One heck of a professional job. Now who knows where to start!

 

factory service manuals have the entire electrical diagram. Have you gone on line to buy one???????????????????????????

 

good start would be to redo all the bogus connections right. use some solder if you dont want to question the connections anymore.

 

craby is right on both accounts being 1) the battery could test alright but still be shot and 2) that the sh!tty connections could be an issue as well. I have the same issue with some of my electrical components but not nearly as bad. If you take your time and buy a manual for your year then you will be fine. Double check all of your work though before you do it if your not comfortable so you don't second guess what is poorly connected!!

 

when you check power at the fuse box, are you using a test light or volt meter? you may have voltage, but may not have amperage. hook up a voltmeter with the ground directly to the battery, then check voltage at the fuse box main power. start turning stuff on and see how much of a voltage drop there is. there is a wire somewhere, either power or ground, that is corroded just right to supply volts but not amps