let each coat dry for 45-60 mins inbetween coats....it may take a while but hopefully it will come out better

 

Dont put it on heavy. Rather use more coats.
Finish your filler work with 80 or 100 grit or so then prime. Light, multiple coats. block sand that with 180 grit or close and reprime. Final sand with 600 wet since you are using spray paint and it is thin.

 

Why are you using 80 grit on primer? You should use no more coarse than 180 on primer, and if you can, I would go as far as 300 for the initial sanding of primer. 400 if you are using a power sander. Once you get a couple layers of paint on there, I'd go with 800 to 1000 to rough that for the clear coat. Then you can either buff, or hand sand with a 3000 to 4000 grit paper and wipe it with a piece of white felt.

Sorry to contradict what you're saying Mike, but I've actually worked in a body shop, and this was our procedure there, and it worked quite well. No offense intended.

 

Well I have worked in a body shop for over 20 years. I also do most jobs from start to finish. Frame, body, paint, polish. I can also do this work faster and better than most of the guys I have worked with that have done it longer. And have developed a few of my own technices that the old guys did not know.
I have already addressed the use of 80 and 180.
He is using a spray can paint. A lot thinner than what we spray out of a gun. That is why I sugest 600 grit for the primers final sand.
There is a window for applying clear. If it is done in time there is no need to sand unless you want to hit a dust speck. And even after that the color will change. But since he is using rattle can I think we can assume he is not useing clear. Besides, applyng clear to spray paint you run the risk of lifting.
I never worked in the chicken **** shops such as maaco, earl schibb, miricale, one day.... I worked in shops that actually gave a **** about what we do.

 

Cmon guys, play nice.

Now, whats this about not spraying on a clearcoat? Jeesh I should have left this to the pro's!

 

I dont play nice. I kick and scratch!
Since you are using spray paint you need to be careful. It does not have any catalist (hardener) in it. If it did it would have a very short shelf life. It would need to be allowed to dry for a long time. Plus the weather is getting colder. If a clear is applied to soon you have a chance of the color coat lifting or wrinkling.

 

Who's not playing nice? Nobody's died yet. I've said it before, and I'll say it again. Most of us on here have made a social gathering of drinking cheap beer and adjusting the carb jetting on our IROC. The Camaro is a redneck car, and even if you're not a redneck, the nature of talking about them all the time brings out the redneck in anyone. Why, just as I write this, I feel the need to go out and buy a 12 pack of Nattie Boh and a .22 to put on the gun rack I'm gonna put on my christmas list in just a second....

 

Well, Ive decicde that body work just isnt my thing. I knocked it all down to bare metal again tonight and started all over again. So, let me pose a question. Suppose I have a rust spot, say the size of a quarter, and I grind the paint down. The spot didnt do any pitting, just light staining. Now I have this shiny spot. I feather the whole area with my random orbit so now its as smooth as a babys butt. Do I need to use filler (bondo) on that spot, or can I just prime and top coat? Im having nightmare with all this. It isnt fun anymore!

 

You should just be able to prime if there was no dent and your feather edges are good. Smooth edges like clouds instead of sharp lines in the transition areas of paint , primer and metal. Use a rag between your hand and the area and feel it. The rag will keep your skin from giving you a false idea of how the area feels.
Try to warm the repair area and your can of primer. Use light, multiple coats instead of fewer, heavy coats.

 

Beat me to it again Mike, but if you can see that it's deformed at all now, it'll look even worse with the paint there. Otherwise, as Mike said, it'll be fine if you treat it right.