ive figured it mostly in my head.ill get that 383 for 400$. at the same time getting the rearend off a z at the yard for 50$. after getting the parts from the yard the only new items id really need is fluids and new motor mounts. correct me if im wrong?

 

WRONG. VERY WRONG.

intake manifold, carb, Headers, Y-pipe, and exhaust are going to be a must on a worked 383. For a few good reasons. Most built motors are going to be running higher compression, more cubes, more lift, and longer durations then a stock engine. This is going to have a huge effect on what the cars needs. Your 305s TBI fuel system is not going to be able to supply that kind of fuel or air to start with. If your running the stock Y pipe and cats the back pressure from the exhaust is going to rob even more power and if back pressure is great enough could even cause valve damage.

Your not going to find a rear end thats in working order for 50 freaking dollars. I dont even think you could find a decent housing for a 9 inch for that price much less axles, or a 3rd member. Hell a stock 10 bolt goes for about 300 and thats going to get toasted in no time.

Transmission well if your cars has a 700R4 that's probably stock and has a ton of miles on it that's going to be toast too. Rebuilds are going to run a few grand to hold that kind of power and torque, You could swap to a TH400 but your going to need a new drive shaft and a cross over support for the transmission.

You will also need a different torque converter to make the thing even some what pleasant to drive or maybe even move. If you go to a Th350 or Th400 the converter is going to be a must since the 700R4 will not mount.

Your also going to have other cost like the fuel system to set it up for carb, plugs, wires, possibly distributer, water pump if its been sitting for a long time, i would replace every seal and gasket i could while its out too so thats 200 bucks.

Every one on here is trying to help you but your not listening. There is no cheap or short cut way to do this. If you swap a stock 350 in place of the 305 your still going to have the 305 TBI system thats going to have to supply more fuel and air to support a bigger motor. Its still going to fall on its face above 4000 RPMs. It would be different if this was a carb car or a TPI engine but its not.

The computer may also have issue with the cam, compression, and stroke if it is a built motor. Keep in mind a built 383 is going to have a lot different needs then a stock 305.

The TBI system is great for trucks but is still a very basic fuel injection system and never built for performance. Dropping in a long block 350 is a great upgrade but your going to need a good carb and intake manifold to get your money out of it. You might as well have your headers on the car or ready to put on at the same time then find a good tuner and get your timing and AFR right.

Not trying to be a *** or any thing man but i hope this helps.

I think i just beat this horse to death like 5 times.

 

cbr: You have some good points, but not everything was accurate. I have a built 383 that dynoed 510 at the flywheel. Behind it is a hughes built 700R4, granted its brand new, but even a well built 700R4 will take that 510 like a champ. I am running a built 10 bolt with hardened axle shafts, with richmond gears and a rebuildable eaton posi unit. It will take that 510 plus an assumed 20% power loss from the trans, exhaust, etc. all day long with street tires. Put slicks on it, and run it off the stick track...then maybe it wouldn't do well. My point, which I think will support yours, is that any one of these swaps that produce significant more power than stock MUST use high quality components. The other point is that I highly, and I mean very highly doubt that junk yard has a high HP stroker motor laying around. Just my rotating assembly alone is worth at least 3x what the junk yard quoted you for that motor. Take your time and do it right the first time, or you'll wish you had just left it alone.

 

600 HP at the wheels for 1000 bucks?
a 383 for 400 bucks?

Where do I even begin? a 600 HP engine and tranny is at the VERY and of what a 350 can produce. Thats every exotic component and trick in the book. If someone is offering you a 600 HP 350 SB AND tranny for 1k....its only 1 of 3 possibilities...

1) Hes full of ****. Totally full of ****, I mean overflowing with ****.
2) The engine is fragged, not running and blown up, worth nothing more than salvage
3) The owner has a mildly worked 350 and thinks 600 HP sounds right.....however a mild 350 is good for 250-300 hp.....a FAR cry from 600

Now...a 383 for 400 bucks....see above....

 

Like I said in my first post. Know NOTHING of chevys. Hah thanks for all the input. The reason that 383 is so cheep is mainly b.c the guy I know that works for them has been there 20 years and has favors out wazoo. I'm hopping to drive it tommrow if I can get the time to get over there. Pictures of it will be posted. Along with a video if possible. Many thanks guys.

 

Agreed that a 700R4 can be built to handle some power. I guess the point i was getting at is a BUILT 700R4 can handle that kind of power but your looking at about 2K at least. As for the 10 bolt i have seen rebuilds with hard axles fell on the first hard pass so its kind of hit and miss. A lot depends on how you drive you car. I think you will agree on this on.

 

Man, all this guy wanted to do was add more pep to his car! Kinda gone way past the "pep" stage, eh?
Some people just aren't satisfied with "moderate" mods I guess (not that I know anything about that).

 

haha thanks for that. i think i kinda led everyone into the past "pep" part though talking about swaps and stall kits. lol.

BUT, i did go look at the "383" just now. i REALLY dont think its a 383 at all. If anything just a dressed up 350. if anyone wants to see it, msg me or respond to this on how I can post a few pictures of it. many thanks.

 

That 350 would be this one, still worth $400 if you can hear it run (and it runs well). You didn't clarify what his boss is "letting go" for $400, just the engine or whole car?

 

A 383 is a 350 block with different intermal rotating assembly so just looking at the outside appearance it it a 350.