Check your battery connections. Keep an eye on your battery gauge, see if it's acting strange. If the battery is fine and tight, It could be a bigger problem. If the starter is bad, it doesn't usually just stop dead- it'll just fail to turn the motor over. At least in my experience... I've had to replace my starter 3 times.

 

That is exactly what it does...feels like you are trying to start it in drive. I KNOW my starter was going bad so it was natural to replace it. But when VATS goes bad it disables the starter so you start scratching your noggin when you put a new one in and it still doesn't start.
I got nailed by a double whammy here. I'm happy the new starter is in because when I fix this VATS issue ALL will be good. I'm going to check the starter relay later today now that I have ruled out the ignition switch with the resistor bypass.

 

freaky and car guy...the ignition switch basically has an ohmmeter inside it. it reads the resistor on your ignition key. 15 different keys were issued by GM and if the VATS module does not read the correct resistance at the ignition switch (of your specific key) it disables the starter and fuel rail.
if you remove the cover and look at your steering column there is an ORANGE wrapped set of 2 tiny white wires with a connector. disconnect the connector...get an ohmmeter and measure your key...then put key in ignition and measure circuit resistance with key OFF and then ON...should MATCH the key resistance +/- 5% (I've also heard 10%).
my key is 681 OHM (#3 of 15) and it was good. I bypassed mine with a Radio Shack 680 ohm resistor on the "circuit" side just to be sure.
I'm hoping it is the starter relay...they go bad...and that would surely disable 12 vots from getting to the starter. I'll let you know what happens. hope this helps. I work graves and got to get some sleep. I'll work on it later today or tommorow...

 

oh yeah...mine did this twice 5 years ago....just waited a few minutes and then it would start. never did it again till now. so i kinda knew in my head that someday this was a commin'...bummer

 

i had my starter checked by pep boys yesterday . the starter is good .
so how do ya bypass the security system ?

 

well i dont know if it was luck or me fiddlin with stuff but she started. the starter sounded rough so let her run for a few cause the volt guage was bouncin. shut her down then restarted her again the starter sounded weak and rough not grinding. after a few i shut her dow again then she wouldnt restart. and the alternator makes a almost chirp every few seconds when she was runnin. guys at the part store tested the alternator and battery a week or so ago cause i was concerned about the chirp sound... its not a belt sound

 

Hey San Diego
Found my spare blank no chip key. When I put it in ignition it is the same as key with chip, key buzzer works with door open, when I turn it to ON position, everything works like normal, radio, gauges,all that stuff, EXCEPT the SECURITY LIGHT DOES NOT come on. Turn to START position and nothing happens, so all it does is DISABLE starter. If SECURITY LIGHT comes on with your chip key then I think VATS is working. Did you change starter selonoid too, on Chevy's a lot of times they go bad before the starter does. You can take them apart and flip the big washer over a lot of times to fix them

 

Starter and solenoid brand new. I got it started and running. With key on I have no voltage on the purple wire to the starter S terminal. I took a remote starter and hooked it up. I expected it to crank only. It runs. I took the kick panel off to check for the starter enable relay but I do not have one there. I now think this relay has to be bad or a fusible link to the starter. I just can't find the relay. ????????

 

You checked the actual ignition switch on bottom of column?

 

yeah it's good. 677 ohms. key on and off.