To start off, I have a 1992 Z-28 Camaro, 350 5.7L engine.

3 years ago I got a new starter, and ever since I've had hot start problems. I believe it's the starter, because latley, I'll start the car from cold and it'll make a click and not turn over once or twice. I crank on it a few times and it cranks fine. I think over time from the heat, it's destroyed the starter. I've decided to purchase a heat shield to put on the starter. Since the car is dual exhaust, I've decided to take it to a shop to have the starter replaced due to the fact I'll have to remove the exhaust. Do you think a new starter and heat shield will fix the problem?

Lately the car has started to pull to the left while driving. I've gotten the front end checked and it is perfectly inline. I've been told it's either the steering gear box or the idler arm. At about 45 mph the steering wheel will bounce if I cruise at that speed. 50+ or 40- is cool. Just around that 45 range. Any idea on what would cause that?

The driver side window has slowly began to slow down as it moves up and down. Lately it will stop midway. After I wate 30 seconds it will move a bit again. I would guess I need a new window motor. Is it very difficult to replace a window motor, and is it the motor or electrical?

While driving lately, I'll apply the brakes to slow down and in the passanger side floorboard, I'll hear a hissing sound as if the AC is leaking. It's only when I apply the break, and the harder I apply it the louder it gets. Sounds comes right where the passanger's feet are. Maybe right above their feet. When I cut the AC while it's making the sound, it stops. I've been told that the evaporator core is leaking. Are these things related, and if not what is the hissing sound?

 

It's not the whole starter just the solenoid thats bad ... your wheels are out of balance ... your window motor is wore out and your break booster is leaking. sick

 

So is it worth getting a new solenoid, or just having the starter replaced?

I got the alignment done and they told me it was all good. Would the tire balance throw the steering off that bad? I have to keep the wheel turned to maybe 11 oclock to keep it straight.

So get a new window motor and install it?

Turning the AC on and off would affect the break booster making a noise?

 

Replacing the window isn't too difficult. I have two window motor replacements under my belt and the 2nd time was easier than the 1st. To me the biggest hitch is putting the 4 BIG rivets in to hold the assemble to the door. Not a job for a little pop rivet gun. I had to drive to a body shop and borrow one there. Are you familiar with removing the door panel?? That has to come off and I carefully removed the vapor barrier (plastic sticky sheet) so I could reinstall it. It is much easier to have it off and out of the way. I left the window in the up position and had some clamps and rags. I put the rags between the jaws of the clamp and the window to hold the window up and keep the window from getting scratched. You don't want to clamp hard or the window will break. Unplug the motor. There are 4 big rivets that need to be drilled out or cut off with a air powered cut off wheel. I had to drill cause that is all I had access to. If you drill, the center of the rivet is steel. You might be able to take a center punch and hammer and knock out the steel center then drill out the aluminum part. If you can't knock the steel center out just be carefull not to walk off the center. Once the rivets are out the window regulator and motor should now be free sliding in the tracks. There is a track running vertical on the end near the latch. Remove the screw at the bottom of the track. You will have to push the track to get the motor/regulator assembly out thru that opening in the lower left, in just a few minutes. I let the window down 4 or 5 inches to slide the assembly out of the tracks. If you leave the window up, the assembly is somewhat trapped. You can look in the door and move the assembly around in the track to see what I mean. So, the window just needs to come down enough to untrap the assembly. BE CAREFUL letting the window down, nothing is holding it up now and could drop and break. Once the assembly is out of the tracks, position or collapse the X so it is ___ flat. Then you have to work it out the opening in the lower left. It takes a little patience but it will fit, this is where the removal of the screw in the vertical track comes in handy. I moved the vertical track back and inch or so then worked the motor/regulator assembly out. A NOTE OF CAUTION!! On the assembly. THE GEAR IS SPRINGLOADED!! Once the motor is off, it will UNLOAD!!! I'm speaking from experience and am lucky nothing got caugth/cut-off. I just had parts flying across my driveway!!! (Damn parts!) There are 2 big holes that can be lined up and something put thru. You might have to hook power back to the motor and work the holes to line up. But the point is the gear and assembly need to be held together so they don't act like scisors. Now with the assembly out, drill out the 3 or 4 small rivets that hold the motor to the regulator. The new motor will have hardware to attach the motor to the regulator. Now you're ready to put it all back together. I stuck bolts in the rivet hole so I could drive to the body shop. They didn't charge me. I was lucky I guess. They even held the window up for me while I riveted it in.

Good Luck!

 

Wow sounds like a task. Thanks a lot for the guide. How much did a new motor cost you?

 

The motor was $50 at AutoZone.

 

I got the starter replaced with a high torque starter. Starter problem is fixed I believe. There is sometimes a hesitation or a pause before the starter engages. I turn the key over and it waites 1 seconds then starts cranking sometimes. Is that the ignition?

Going to pick up some new tires monday and see if that fixes my steering problem.

 

Well if you have good tires I wouldnt go buy new ones. The bad news is that I had a ford taurus that had the same problem your having. And well it could possibly have a bent frame and that could be why you have to counter steer it. I would check your frame to see if thats it. I could be wrong to

 

It was fine... the car hasn't been in a wreck. The car gradually started pulling.

 

Then yaeh I guess the tires could be it. Well hey at least you know its not the frame, because frames are a pain.