I'm up at school, about 200 miles away from home and I'm having issues with my Camaro. My dad's driving up tomorrow (8/29) but we need all the help we can get. Here's my dad's post from another forum. Thanks ya'll!
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Here's the story. After much searching My Daughter had to have
a Third Generation Z28 to take with here to college this semester.
She bough it after it had been setting for several months.

It's a 5.0L Automatic 1991 Z28 with 170,000 miles. Previus owner
never took it more than 40 miles from home and stayed off the interstate.

To get it ready for the 200 mile run to School
I did the following over the summer:

-Cleaned Throttle Body
-replaced all vacuum hoses I could find
-Had Valve Stem Seals (Blue Smoke at Start-up) and Plugs (AC DELCO) replaced a week ago.
-Came with new plug wires
-Replaced both Air Cleaner and PCV
-Replaced Struts and Shocks with KYB
-Ran Sea Foam with a full Tank
-replaced old OEM O2 Sensor with Bosch
- Changed OIL twice in 1000 miles, presently running Shell Rottela T
10W 30
-Replaced all Coolant and Flushed


What Happen.... Made the trip fine to school. Blew smoke when she punched it up the mountain.
Other wise no problem. Noticed it hard started when warmed up. Took two or three attemps at cranking before
it started. I left and went home think it'll be OK.

Last night she calls and it's not starting after sitting for 5 hours after
a 5 mile trip. Tried troublesooting it remotely as she's 200 miles away.
Been driving it for a week.

I've talked a Mechanic. I told him the symptoms:

- Was Exhibiting Hard start when warm.
- Runs with Starting fluid then dies
- Cranks but won't start
- Can hear the fuel Pump Prime with ignition on
- Tank is full
- Recently Set code 32 (EGR valve) on long cruising speed trips more
than 100 miles
- Recently had valve stem seals replaced

I let him talk before telling him my ideas. He told me since the engine
actually did start briefly that the Ignition System was likely OK,
and was likely a fuel delivery problem. However.....

He was thinking the following

-Fuses: Check Ignition 1 and Ignition 2 fuses if his memory serves.
Verify relays are fully connected. They may control the activation of the
the 8 Fuel Injectors on top of the engine. IF the injectors don't turn on no start will occur.

-Relays bad: At fire wall near the driver side under the hood. However,
since we heard the Fuel pump prime they're likely OK. There's three of them just laying there.

-Disconnected plug: Look around for a loose plugable connections

-Fuel Pump may not be producing adequate pressure to start: He said the
Schrader Valve for checking pressure is in the back near the distributor
cap area. It will be on the silver fuel rails running on both sides of the top
of the engine. He's going to let me borrow his Fuel Pressure Meter to
check the pressure. HE said as soon as you hit the Ignition Switch to on
(KOEO), the pressure should jump to 40 to 45 PSI on the meter. IF not we
have a bad fuel pump.


-Ignition Module may be bad as it is interconnected with the ECM (Engine
Computer Module) Many times, if bad it simply will not start even with
Starting Fluid. However, that is not always the case since a bad Ignition
Module may interfere with the Fuel Injectors and firing order. He
thinks we should change it regardless. It's located under the distributor
cap. When we remove it make sure we don't drop the screws into the
distributor. Autozone or Advance can check it for us for free. HE warned
not to get one at Advance as they are many times bad off the shelf.

-I mentioned the Coolant Temperature Sensor and he agreed that it could
also be a problem as it effectively tells the ECM either to decrease (lean
out) or increase fuel delivery to the engine among other things.

-Also I was thinking, If the the ECM is detecting the Gas Pedal in a fully
down position the fuel Injectors won't turn on. It needs to be checked out
as well.

-Also, we'll run the codes to see what's else may be set besides EGR code
32.

Any other Ideas as I going up Saturday to try and fix it?

 

You may want to look at the oil pressure sender/switch. I third gen cars, when you first go to start the engine, power to the fuel pump is provided through the fuel pump relay, (but only for about 5 seconds), after the engine is started the fuel pump relay drops off and power to the fuel pump if provided via the oil pressure switch. If the oil pressure switch is bad ar the oil pressure is less than 5 PSI there will be no power to the pump. (The idea was to protect the engine in case of oil pressure failure) If this switch or the oil pressure is bad, the engine to start and die right after starting. By the way, the Rotella T oil you are using is not appropriate for gasoline engines as it is formulated for diesel engines.

When the gas pedal is fully depressed when attempting to start the engine, the PCM will shut down the fuel injectors ( known as the unload mode). This is normal, and is similiar to flooring the gas pedal on a carbed engine to force the choke fully open in order to clear a flooded condition.

A faulty EGR that hangs open during start will cause a lean condition which could prevent starting. The EGR should only open during low load condition and be fully closed at idle and WOT.