91 rs paint job??
#21
09-30-2009, 05:12 PM
i was just wondering because ive seen jobs where they didnt sand between coats and you could see all the little imperfections in the clear coat and ive seen where you sand lightly with very fine grit and it smooths it for the next coat?
#22
10-01-2009, 12:38 AM
Yes, that is true but the sanding you are referring too between coats is known as "Buffing" to a painter. Dont sand it, just buff it, That way there is no need too re paint anything and you can choose which coat finishes the job. If you literally sand in between coats your going to HAVE to put another coat on afterward or of course it will be scuffed. Buffing technically is using the highest grit possible and the finest way of sanding a car. It is effective in getting rid of minor dirt spots, and runs. You may find that after one coat of clear and a buff job you are satisfied. obviously dont apply clear coat if your base coat is full of dirt, dust bugs or runs. Buff it, then clear. Again, unless something is seriously wrong ( buffing wont fix a major run or water mark or severe dirt marks) No need to sand between coats, just buff.
#24
10-01-2009, 03:24 PM
Sounds like a plan. Dont forget to update us throughout the process so we can help with challenges you may meet. Make sure to tape off any doors leading to the house from the garage, those fumes are somethin else. And remember, if you have nosey neighbors be sure to keep it on the hush. Painting out of your garage can be illegal and leave you with a hefty fine. GOOD LUCK. USE A MASK. BE SAFE
#26
10-02-2009, 04:16 PM
5 months later, it finally is starting to look good. This is what I meant about taking everthing out and getting all the nooks and crannies.
http://s746.photobucket.com/albums/xx103/djs389/
http://s746.photobucket.com/albums/xx103/djs389/
#27
10-03-2009, 08:29 AM
i have videos ive got info from more sources then this. the orginal post was about the supplies i would need. as far as the chicks reply..... the only thing i said i wasnt removing was the windows..?? i said i was taking off the molding your bashing..... and as far as the guy ****ing up the primer...if you look at my original post that started this thread you see that i say i have a primmer 91 rs that needs re-primmered he prepped the body good but it looks like he used a spray can primer so this goes into gorns reply with no it was not blocked and yes i will be sanding to bare metal again. so its like im starting from scratch. from absolute bare metal. i know i need hardener and maybe reducer but im not sure the ratio. so i sand to bare metal. then i prime block prime, wet sand then i mix the paint with whatever hardener/reducer i need and begin to paint sanding between each coat then i gloss sanding between each coat then i buff till i get my desired shine?... sorry i dont mean to sound like an *** im just trying to get everything straight.
I must have misunderstood you when you said "theres no need to do extra work and pull stuff off that you can tape up ".Im sorry if you felt I was bashing you!NOt at all!My only intention was to help you out.
As far as the mix ratios goes, you should be able to get them from wherever you purchase the paint from.If not check out the manufaturers website.If you cant find it there I can research that for you.
I cant wait to see it finished!
#29
10-05-2009, 10:00 AM
11 years of journeyman body experience and 4 years of school for it. here's how it goes short list
1. Get the car straight.
2. Use a good FILLER primer on the whole car since your starting off with god knows what.
3. 180/220 block sand with the longest block you can find, then go back and repair any high/low spots.
4. re-prime and wet sand with 400/600 grit.
5. tape disassemble etc.
6. lay on 2-3 coats of a quality urethane basecoat(no shine)
7. wait 10-15 minutes and lay on one medium coat of clear, wait 15 minutes then lay one heavy coat of clear. go inside, drink a beer and leave it alone til morning.
8. untape the car carefully, wetsand with 1500 the entire car in 2 foot sections then use coarse buffing compound followed by polish on a separate pad. Then enjoy your car!
1. Get the car straight.
2. Use a good FILLER primer on the whole car since your starting off with god knows what.
3. 180/220 block sand with the longest block you can find, then go back and repair any high/low spots.
4. re-prime and wet sand with 400/600 grit.
5. tape disassemble etc.
6. lay on 2-3 coats of a quality urethane basecoat(no shine)
7. wait 10-15 minutes and lay on one medium coat of clear, wait 15 minutes then lay one heavy coat of clear. go inside, drink a beer and leave it alone til morning.
8. untape the car carefully, wetsand with 1500 the entire car in 2 foot sections then use coarse buffing compound followed by polish on a separate pad. Then enjoy your car!
#30
10-06-2009, 05:39 PM
the paint i was looking at getting is an acrylic enamel so its like a 2 step paint thats supposed to be good with no gloss but im getting the gloss anyway because i want a nice shine is that bad or should i use a paint with no shine