YES, replace the intake gasket. Anytime you remove a gasket it should be replaced (with the exception a a few reusable models)

Torque for the rocker arms? Are they on a shaft or individually mounted? If they are individually mounted, you need to set each one. I read your initial post about some being loose and some tight, thats normal. The tight ones are the ones being held open by the cam, the loose ones are closed. So the GENERAL procedure for adjusting your rockers is

1)rotate crank until just before valve opens. (you will see it open, back it off a bit)
2)While holding pushrod between two fingers, roll pushrod and tighten valve until you feel the FIRST bit of resistance.
2) Tighten 1/4 to 1/2 turn more.

This definitely takes some 'feel' to do and PLEASE do some research because if you set them incorrectly, you could really bugger up your engine. My above instructions are for familiarization only.

 

well i took the rockers completely off, and inly three of them were loose, i checked the valves and they were all good. i did find a site that had the correct ft-lbs i needed to set the rockers at, they mount on indevidual shafts that come up from the head. the engine looks good now, black red and chrome. will be installing the heads later tonight and will put the intake on once the gaskets are here. Thanks for assuring i need to replace all gaskets, wasnt sure if i could re-use them or not.

also anyone reading this if you may have a set of black or chrome headers i could buy from you for resonable please let me know! email is lilbam_skateszooyork@hotmail.com

also if you may have some new chrome valve covers or a chrome air cleaner that will fit a stock 267 carb. i believe it has a rochester carb. has a D shape to it instead of the regular O shape that the 350's have.

 

the thing the fan mounts too.. not sure what its called. i wanna say its the windage tray or something??? correct..?"

could be the water pump but if it looks like a tray then it's Radiator my man, a radiator

okay well i took everything off the block, left the cam and pistons in.

Should of put a cam in there....that engine could have high mileage. Ebay has them for around $40 bucks.

do you know the proer torque to set the rocker arms at?

They are not torqued at a specific number....your gonna have see a video or read a manual.

should i replace the intake gaskets as well?

unless you have re-usebles, (which I doubt) definitely get new ones. Only like $14 bucks

when timing, i believe the #1 cylinder should be tdc, then i put the new distributer in. correct?

it wont just fall in....that part can be tricky. Partial answer is yes and the rotor should be pointing towards the #1 "pole" The bottom of the distributor needs to line up to the oil pump shaft. your gonna have fun putting it in so get the cold ones ready.


Dude..... before putting your engine back together seriously look into reading a Hayes manual or our bible "How to Rebuild a Small Block Chevy" it has valuable information a guy like you would need.....like right now. The 267 had some differences and I'm not sure if it is worth the headache, time or money.

With the money you are eventually gonna spend just do what I do....Find a free or cheap 305. You will have better luck with upgrades and performance. All the parts interchange with the 350 if you go that way in the future.

Good luck I wish I lived closer and I would stop by and help

 

18436572

That is a VERY important number for GM owners. What it actually means is the firing order for most GM V8 engines. 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 and if memory serves me right the rotor turns clockwise. as for the rockers there is no foot pound setting for them they are set based on each lifter. I will try to find the instruction and post it here in a minute but the base of it is this.

Run the engine to TDC

with the intake off you can see the lifters that are not on a cam lobe but on the flat of the cam. you should be able to adjust 8 of the 16 valves.

Tighten the rocker untill there is 0 lash in the assembly with the lifter on the flat of the cam. then turn the nut 3/4 of a turn more.

Repeat for all lifters that are on the flats of their cam lobes.

Turn the engine over 360degrees, this will put the engine 1/2 way through a cycle and the valves that were on the lobes will now be on the flats. Repeat the process for the remaining valves and you are done.

Make sure you push the lifters down a little to make sure they are bottomed out on the cam.

It is really that simple

Massey

 

lol i know the difference between the radiator and the water pump. the only reson i called it a windage try was because when i was getting the torque settings there was one for a "windage tray" and i had never heard of that before. also, the thing that confused me is there was an electronic water pump mounted on the front right of the engine, just aboe the fuel pump.

i wasnt planning on fully re-building the engine because it ran great, i was really supprised. i basically want to clean it up and make it look less.... crappy.

as far as the rocker arms i did find a torque setting. after a few replys one here and asking some friends i think i have that part figured out.

i did go get some new intake gaskets from napa yesterday, only $12

as far as the timing, i basically have that down too. found a way to cheat!!

The only reason i am keeping the 267 in it is because i dont have the resources to pull an engine right now. i did have a 350 i was building with a friend i was going to put in it but with how grea the 267 ran and the large amount of. "holy crap i didnt know they made a 267!!!" o get when people see it makes me grin. i like being unique! my frineds mother, she basically raised me, is a bus mechanic. has been working on engines for 35 years. she has all the tools anyone need "currently has to sell them because of the economy, too bad" but she knows alot about this stuff and is helping me out. i could read a book all day but i wouldnt learn a thing. i have to be hands on. take it apart and put it back together the same way it came apart. i do it to everything.

cars, wheelers, boats, guns, phones, ice cream cake... well the last one there i dont really put back together! but im damn good at taking it apart

thanks for the help. i will post pictures of the engine once im done to see what you guys think,

 

thanks for the detailed walk through! i found out my friends mom actually has a timing light! and shes going to walk me through adjusting the valves and what not. i really appreciate everyones help! be expecting pics up soon!

 

The above two-step process (as shown in most repair manuals) is NOT the way you want to adjust the valves for a "set & run".
You want the lifters to be at the heel of EACH cam lobe. And to do that, you need to adjust the valves individually.
The two-step process doesn't give you that, and you will end up with some loose, out of adjustment valves.
This how-to article shows the right way to adjust valves: http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/te...nfo/index.html
And this write up explains more in detail the geometry of the valvetrain: http://www.centuryperformance.com/ad...h-spg-149.html

 

okay i will check them both out. is this something i have to do? the engine ran great, very smooth so im sure the valves are just fine. i would prefer to just put the rockers back on and not worry about adjusting all the valves.

 

No, you don't have to do it, since you're already done. If it's running ok and not clacking, it's probably not worth it to go back. Many years ago, and more than once, I had tried the two-step method (before knowing better). Each time, I would wind up with a couple of loose rockers after rotating the engine by hand and checking them. I don't even waste my time with that method any more.

 

Not to sound like I am arguing with you but I have done this method many times over the last 20 years with no issues at all. But I ONLY do this method when the intake is off so I can see the lifters that are down in their bores. When the intake is on I do the one at a time method following the firing order. I dont trust the adjustment if I cant see the lifter in the bore and know it is fully down on the heel of the cam.

You will not have to do this unless your rockers have been removed. This is called adjusting the valves. The whole assembly is the Cam, lifters, pushrods, rockers and the valve itself. This whole assembly is adjusted by the nut on the top of the rocker and getting it set right is CRITICAL! with a SBC you cannot just tighten them down and forget about them, some engines you can but not these ones.

Massey