so i just rebuilted my carburator and distributor,
1. i got a proformer GM upgrade kit for the distributor which is supposed to be a 50 000 volt distributor and but it on place and what not. But i run into some trouble replacing the weights under the rotor, i couldn't figure out how to remove the pins that hold the center plate, do you just pull them or what? how do i remove the center plate?

2. Rebuilted my roachester M4CM carb and before doing it counted the 1/2 turns on the idle screws (they were messed up one had 12 and the other one had 7, or is this posible? aren't thys supposed to be equal?)

over all i put everthing together in the car (didn't change the weights on the dist) and started to "tune" the engine; when i just let it sit and press on the gas even fast there is no problem but when i put it onto gear and prest onto the gas fast there is an explotion from the carb, does this mean that i have too much fuel going onto the engine? i'm already in the 16 1/2 turn on the screws and i don't know how far out they can go.. it is the first time i do this so...

also i set the timing as it was originally but i'm not exactly sure how to read the timing marks... i know it sounds lame but i'm not sure how many degres each pick represents.

sorry if it is too long of a question(s), over all the car can be driven and it drives nice but there is no power to the wheels i feel like i'm driving a honda....

 

1) The center plate of the distributor is part of the shaft, it doesn't come off. To get the weights off, remove the springs and the weights lift right off. But unless you know how to tune a distributor, I wouldn't go messing with it.
2) On the carb, crank the idle screws all the way in, then back them out three full turns. That'll give you a starting point. A hand held tach would come in handy so you can watch the rpm's as you crank on the idle screws. Back one idle screw out until you get max rpm on the tach. Then slowly screw it screw it back in until the rpm's start to drop. Now back it out again slowly until you get your maximum rpm reading as before. Do the same for the other idle screw.
Once the throttle opens the butterflies on the carb, the idle circuit is bypassed, so your popping isn't because of the idle screws. I would say your ignition timing is still off.
It would be a good idea to buy yourself a repair manual so you can read up (and look at pictures) on how to set the timing. I'm sure you would be able to fine explicit instructions if you do an online search as well.

 

alright i see, i figured it would be you answering me first, thank you actually helped me alot before, figure the tach issue would come up, i don't have one but i simply use the one on the dash and i check it everytime i change something...