Front Coil Springs
I recently purchased a 76' Camaro with a 350 4V. It came with a left front broken coil spring and I had to replace both front springs. Now the car is sitting a little to high in the front. The mechanic suggested that I add a leaf to the rear springs to compensate. Is there a company out there that manufacturers coil springs that will let the car sit correctly in the front.
^ Yep, had to do that once on my first 69. Put on new springs and the car looked like an off-roader in the front. If you like the stance of how it was before, then you want to cut the springs. I wouldn't jack up the rear unless that's the look you're after. Cut the springs with a saw, not a torch, and measure carefully.
So... I should remove the newly installed springs and cut off a specified amount of the new spring and then reinstall the now shortened spring. My only question is that its not easy installing springs in these cars and my fear is if I cut too much off and the car sits too low in the front.
I had the same problem 3 years ago - bought new springs for the front and they were way too high.
First!!!!..measure the exact height they are now, before you remove them. Now you have a decision on the height that you want the car to sit at. I suggest you measure the sump-to-ground height now, and figure out what is "safe" or best for you and your car. I had to make 100 milimetres sump height to get it registered, but i think it is up to you. (That is 6 inches) If you want the whole car dumped, thats up to you, but I dont like scraping everp hump and driveway, so I stuck with 6 inches.
I had my springs made locally, (we have an automotive springmaker in my city - lucky break) and they re-set them to suit, but they wanted the existing ride height and the desired ride height, The springs were not cut, but they reheated and re-set them to the right height. I dont think it is a great idea to cut steel out of the springs, but again, its up to you. They also wanted the exact weight of the car, engine weight, wheel diameter and they wanted the old springs too. And they got it wrong on the first try, so it is not an exact science. You should be prepared to do this more than once, to get it perfect.
Measure both sides while the car is on a good flat surface from the centre of the wheel arch, and establish they are sitting flat.
The springs are a lot easier to remove if you have access to a lift, and can raise the car so you can work on it with the wheels at chest height.
Any half decent mechanic shop wil be able to get it done, and probably cut the springs on the spot. If you have the time, I would get a springmaker to reset them while you have them out. If you cant find one nearby, then cut them, carefully and evenly. Measure the springs and mark the amount you want to take off, but dont just take off the same amount you want to drop the height. take off a bit less. Springs settle and compress over time, and mostly in the first few thousand miles after you install them.
You can always take more off if you need to, but you cant add height again, not easily anyway.
I really struggled the first time I removed and replaced the springs, but I have done dozens on different cars since then, and it is easy with the right tools and a car lift. Also SPRAY ALL BOLTS AND NUTS with penetrating oil like WD 40 and leave it to work for 15 minutes. It made a big difference for me. Re-asseble with anti-seize on all those bolts, just in case you want to change it again later.
If you do this at home, on jacks, and something goes badly, it is going to be a problem to to w it, fixit etc, and mechancs are loathe to come out without their tools and lifts to firstly fix your problem, and then to do the job on the springs. Just my opinion on that, you may be all set up at home for the work - good luck mate, it is a job worth doing.
Hope it helps you bud.
Les
68 SS BB coupe.
Adelaide, south Australia
First!!!!..measure the exact height they are now, before you remove them. Now you have a decision on the height that you want the car to sit at. I suggest you measure the sump-to-ground height now, and figure out what is "safe" or best for you and your car. I had to make 100 milimetres sump height to get it registered, but i think it is up to you. (That is 6 inches) If you want the whole car dumped, thats up to you, but I dont like scraping everp hump and driveway, so I stuck with 6 inches.
I had my springs made locally, (we have an automotive springmaker in my city - lucky break) and they re-set them to suit, but they wanted the existing ride height and the desired ride height, The springs were not cut, but they reheated and re-set them to the right height. I dont think it is a great idea to cut steel out of the springs, but again, its up to you. They also wanted the exact weight of the car, engine weight, wheel diameter and they wanted the old springs too. And they got it wrong on the first try, so it is not an exact science. You should be prepared to do this more than once, to get it perfect.
Measure both sides while the car is on a good flat surface from the centre of the wheel arch, and establish they are sitting flat.
The springs are a lot easier to remove if you have access to a lift, and can raise the car so you can work on it with the wheels at chest height.
Any half decent mechanic shop wil be able to get it done, and probably cut the springs on the spot. If you have the time, I would get a springmaker to reset them while you have them out. If you cant find one nearby, then cut them, carefully and evenly. Measure the springs and mark the amount you want to take off, but dont just take off the same amount you want to drop the height. take off a bit less. Springs settle and compress over time, and mostly in the first few thousand miles after you install them.
You can always take more off if you need to, but you cant add height again, not easily anyway.
I really struggled the first time I removed and replaced the springs, but I have done dozens on different cars since then, and it is easy with the right tools and a car lift. Also SPRAY ALL BOLTS AND NUTS with penetrating oil like WD 40 and leave it to work for 15 minutes. It made a big difference for me. Re-asseble with anti-seize on all those bolts, just in case you want to change it again later.
If you do this at home, on jacks, and something goes badly, it is going to be a problem to to w it, fixit etc, and mechancs are loathe to come out without their tools and lifts to firstly fix your problem, and then to do the job on the springs. Just my opinion on that, you may be all set up at home for the work - good luck mate, it is a job worth doing.
Hope it helps you bud.
Les
68 SS BB coupe.
Adelaide, south Australia
Oh, and yes, there are plenty of suppliers for original and repro springs for your 75 Camaro. I looked up Classic industries and they have your parts here
http://www.classicindustries.com/con...¤tPage=2
there are a lot more suppliers too.
good luck
LR
http://www.classicindustries.com/con...¤tPage=2
there are a lot more suppliers too.
good luck
LR
Since you've had them apart recently it will be pretty easy the second time. Maybe even easier than the first! If the car is a couple inches too high, then one coil should do the trick. If it's more than that you'll want to cut 1 1/2. I've never heard of nyone ever having to cut more than 1 1/2 coils. As Camaro 69 said, you don't want to cut with a torch, but rather with a portaband saw, or hacksaw if you don't have the portaband.
One thing I didn't see anyone mention is the rear springs. The fronts are prolly the correct height for the car and it is the rears that are weak and too low. I know the car looks good with the lowered stance, but if the rear springs are weak it will effect the car's overall handling. You may want to look into new rear springs. You can get springs that are also lowered to keep the stance your car currently has but the strength that keeps your handling intact.
Massey
Massey
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