350 engine build
#1
09-21-2012, 11:19 AM
350 engine build
alright so im deffinately really green to building engines (ive never had one apart...) but i might as well learn because i dont have money to send it to a shop. so heres the deal... ive been reading everything about cam specs, intakes, and heads i can find. but i never really get an exact set up. i dont know enough to put together an exact setup for myself. ive got around $1000 to spend... i want to do cam, heads, and intake. car will probably be daily driven in summer. But im still hoping to keep up with my friends on the weekend. any help?
#2
09-21-2012, 04:15 PM
Real simple. First get yourself a Vortec longblock assembley off Craigs list or some place else. Be sure its the 880 block casting. Check number on side of block or on the back above the oil filter, it shoud say 5.7L and check on the other side and the casting number will be their. Be sure its a runner that some one took out for a spare or something. Heads will have one hump on the end 906 castings or a saw tooth pattern with three points 062 castings. This is the base for a 400HP simple and cheap built. The HEADS and the LITE Pistons and ring package is what your looking for. Take the motor apart and have it jet washed at any machine shop and go from their. Barrel hone the cylinders because there is VERY LITTLE ware on the cylinder walls because of the lite weight ring package. You will need new cam bearings rods mains and a new timing chain and the special vortec piston rings. You can reuse everything else with a good cleaning and some paint. Your cam choice with the stock heads will be under .480 lift. Best choice is a Comp EX-268 in a flat tappet grind. If you want to move up to a roller cam the GM HOT CAM or secret grind ?????(PM me for the specks and company) you will need to have some head work and spring upgrade. Another great roller cam choice is the GM 383 cam this one is under the .480 lift package. If you want I can have one cleaned and ready for YOU to assemble in a full day. Can also do the machineing on the heads for a bigger springs and cam. IF you doing it yourself get a book and look up all the TQ specks for the bolts and enjoy the project. The reason for the 880 block is they all came with roller lifters and all the parts to go with a roller cam if thats what you want to do.
Last edited by YAV8; 09-21-2012 at 04:18 PM.
#3
09-21-2012, 07:41 PM
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Portland, Or
Posts: 9,097
Real simple. First get yourself a Vortec longblock assembley off Craigs list or some place else. Be sure its the 880 block casting. Check number on side of block or on the back above the oil filter, it shoud say 5.7L and check on the other side and the casting number will be their. Be sure its a runner that some one took out for a spare or something. Heads will have one hump on the end 906 castings or a saw tooth pattern with three points 062 castings. This is the base for a 400HP simple and cheap built. The HEADS and the LITE Pistons and ring package is what your looking for. Take the motor apart and have it jet washed at any machine shop and go from their. Barrel hone the cylinders because there is VERY LITTLE ware on the cylinder walls because of the lite weight ring package. You will need new cam bearings rods mains and a new timing chain and the special vortec piston rings. You can reuse everything else with a good cleaning and some paint. Your cam choice with the stock heads will be under .480 lift. Best choice is a Comp EX-268 in a flat tappet grind. If you want to move up to a roller cam the GM HOT CAM or secret grind ?????(PM me for the specks and company) you will need to have some head work and spring upgrade. Another great roller cam choice is the GM 383 cam this one is under the .480 lift package. If you want I can have one cleaned and ready for YOU to assemble in a full day. Can also do the machineing on the heads for a bigger springs and cam. IF you doing it yourself get a book and look up all the TQ specks for the bolts and enjoy the project. The reason for the 880 block is they all came with roller lifters and all the parts to go with a roller cam if thats what you want to do.
#5
09-21-2012, 09:12 PM
If you have the block HOT TANKED they need to take the frost plugs out. Most of the vortec motors came with brass plugs so it up to the shop doing the cleaning. They take out the brass and put in steel?????. The motor your looking for came in the 1996-2001 trucks vans and burbs. Just be sure its the 880 block and the GOOD vortec heads. The earlyer motors from 1986-1995 did not have anything good for heads. You will also need to have a electric fuel pump because most of the block were not drilled for a external fuel pump.
#8
09-22-2012, 06:21 PM
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Portland, Or
Posts: 9,097
[QUOTE=YAV8;645470]If you have the block HOT TANKED they need to take the frost plugs out. Most of the vortec motors came with brass plugs so it up to the shop doing the cleaning. They take out the brass and put in steel?????. QUOTE]
So you wouldn't have a engine hot tanked and magnafluxed because they might take the soft plugs out and put steel in? Most shops I've had engine work done at will either use brass soft plugs, or ask if I have a preference. I'd still not put money into a block without doing it, it's just a logical thing to do, and not expensive. (even with brass soft plugs!)
So you wouldn't have a engine hot tanked and magnafluxed because they might take the soft plugs out and put steel in? Most shops I've had engine work done at will either use brass soft plugs, or ask if I have a preference. I'd still not put money into a block without doing it, it's just a logical thing to do, and not expensive. (even with brass soft plugs!)
#9
09-22-2012, 07:57 PM
What I should have said to make things simple is to have the block JET WASHED and not remove the brass plugs. If you want to HOT TANK it then then have them install steel or brass. You can have the block maged both ways.