1971 402 ID Help

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Old Aug 29, 2011 | 10:09 AM
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p3x
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From: Mass
Default 1971 402 ID Help

New to the forum and looking for help to positivly ID a 402 I am preparing to rebuild and advice on components to keep it fairly close to stock (looks anyway) and increase the HP. Purchased the engine from the PO who had it on a stand for 10 Years for a project he abandoned. He got it from a friend who removed it from a "68 or 69 Camaro" to install a 454. It was in "good running condition" at the time of removal.

I've been going through the numbers on the components and have identified the majority. But come up with conficting info on the partial VIN stamped on the from pad and looking for help from the experts on this board. Here's the nubers:

Engine Block
Casting No.: 3969854
Block Date Code: B 23 71
Left Side, Rear above Oil Filter:
HIPERF PASS with a Big K and 21 below the K
VIN Pad - Engine Suffix T0309CLAPartial VIN - 11B196311

Crank
38(9?)04815NF – Nodular Forged Crank.
Date: A251
Misc Marks - GM11, B-M 533, 32GM, 362


Left Cyl Head

Casting No: 3917215 BBC Oval Port - Closed
Date Code: H 15(8?) 7
Other Markings: GMT3, PASS, CONV4, Clock: Pointer looks to read at 4:00 (0 at Bottom)

Right Cyl Head

Casting No: 3917215 BBC Oval Port - Closed
Date Code: F 19 7
Other Markings: GMT4, PASS, 68 0r 89 Depending how you invert numbers
Clock: Pointer looks to read at 12:00 (0 at Bottom)

It did not come with a Distributer or Carb and has an Edlebrock Performer 20 installed. From what I can determine, it looks to be originally installed in a 1971 or 1972 Camaro or Chevelle and rated at 300, 325, 330, or (Gulp!) 240 HP.

I'm preparing to overhaul it to install in a Corvette I'm restoring. The PO (KNOT HEADed individual) replaced the original 350 with a 262 - Embarrassing... Always liked the 396/402 Engines and thought it to be a good choice to install. Vette Engine Bay's look a little sparse with a SB installed.

When I got the engine, I rotated it and did the Finger test which easily blew my fingers off the plug hole as it turned and spins easily (No plugs). The Cyl. Walls look pretty good from what I can see positioning the Pistons at the top of the bores with the pan off. The only issue found is a snapped Head Bolt laying on top of the head when I pulled a valve cover. From the looks of the break and taking a SWAG it may have been overtorque/fatigue.

I want to get it in the 375-400HP range after rebuilding it to keep up with the Hi HP SBs running around if needed. Only plan to use it as a fair weather driver as I live in the Northeast and have no plans to race it at a track.

Any and all advice is greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

p3x in Mass,
 
Old Sep 2, 2011 | 08:34 AM
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