My 79 has a Muncie 4-Speed (it is not the original) that started clunking in reverse and clicking in first. Noise is prominent while moving whether the clutch is engaged or not, goes quiet if I take it out of gear and coast. Couldn't find any play in the drive shaft or the mounting brackets. Going to leave it to the pros on this one. I'm guessing 2-3K worst case scenario for parts and labor, probably another thousand if the clutch needs replacing as well. I'll post more info after I can get her into the shop (probably not till Christmas time).

 

Bummer,sounds about right on the money guess.

 

Tow it. Sounds to me like something is up with the front bearing or the counter shaft bearing. Bearings are cheap, gears are not. If it lets loose with a loud pop and the car stops moving now are you into expensive gear parts and you could break the case.

Fixing a manual transmission is normally pretty easy but it has to be done right. You can use used parts as long as the tech knows how to inspect the parts and verify the fits. A counter gear can cost over $1000 new and if I remember right first gear includes the input shaft making almost as much. If its just the front bearing and you update all the sinks and bearing that should be $1200-$1500. Unless you live somewhere with crazy labor rates.

The tech can check the clutch for you but depending on bell housing design he may have to pull the bell housing. There would be no reason to pull the bell housing just to repair the gear box. Doing the clutch now would be efficient BUT many shops use rates on jobs like this. Example. Brake pads get charged 30 minutes labor, replacing brake rotors replaced 45 minutes If you get both done they still charge 75 minutes for the job. Yea I know not fair but that is the reason you can get quoted 8 hours labor and they call back in 3 hours and tell you it is done.

Do you know if its a M20 or M21,22? The M20 can be bought pretty cheap used. Heck I had a friend of mine who was upgrading to a T56 in his vet offer me a low miles M22 for $700. He even talked me into test driving his vet (like that was hard ) so I could feel the close ratio. My trans is numbers matching so I did not take it. Point is there are people upgrading their old cars and you can find used transmission that are in good condition.

The only real question is, is it worth it to fix it? Its not the original trans. You could get a remanufactured one for around $1500, That should not cost more then 3 hours to install. You could upgrade to a TKO 600 5 speed kit for $4500 in parts. That is a new transmission with a warranty and overdrive is real nice to have.

For non-number matching car a good aftermarket 5 or 6 speed upgrade should increase value of the car. Many aftermarket upgrades may make a car more drivable but they hurt the value. The aftermarket T5 and T56 have a good reputation and make the car so much more useable they have stood the test of time. I don't think it would increase the value the total cost but maybe 50% of the costs of the upgrade. I would ask 2-3K if I had the same car with that upgrade. This means in the end it could cost you less to do the upgrade then to do the repair. Telling people you have the transmission rebuilt will not increase the value of the car.

 

Had it towed to a shop last night. They'll call me later with estimates. It's a local shop that some friends have used in the past with great results. I'm not worried about numbers matching. She was born as a Berlinetta with the 305 and the previous owner dropped in a 350 and started all the Z28 tribute mods. Personally I like the way it looks and not much concerned with the overall value in the future. I mostly just want it to last. Given the reputation of muncie, a good R&R will likely outlast me. Haha!

 

Carnage. Shop owner said looks like someone rebuilt it a few years ago and didn't put it back together correctly. Can't believe I was able to shift and drive it all.

 

Ouch! Well at least when it's been gone through this time it should last a good many years.

 

All nice and pretty

Shifter rebuilt too!

Shift fork and throw out bearing were gone too. Had to wait for this part

 

Yeah that throwout arm looks pretty rough,if the bearing was shot better look that pressure plate over real well.
Unless the clutch all looks really really good if it was mine I'd probably do the full meal deal and do the clutch/pressure plate ,resurface the flywheel and replace the pilot bushing then button it up with all new ARP fasteners.
Just my 2 cts.

 

@Y2Keglide you and I are on the same page. I'm having it all replaced. It's costing me a bit more but I figure this way I shouldn't have any issues from the fly wheel to the drive shaft for as long as I own her.

 

Wish there was a "like" button on this forum.
Yeah I really think that's a wise decision since it's already apart.
You could chalk it up to preventative maintenance,smart move IMO.