Very basic front-end work
#1
Very basic front-end work
I was doing a weekly check to see if anything was low or wearing out.
Noticed that both of my front tires are wearing out in a choppy pattern.
I jacked up the front end and the spindles are moving in and out really badly. My question is, are any parts pressed or stamped in place?
Noticed that both of my front tires are wearing out in a choppy pattern.
I jacked up the front end and the spindles are moving in and out really badly. My question is, are any parts pressed or stamped in place?
Last edited by oldman9; 01-15-2013 at 09:15 PM.
#2
No, none of the frontend parts are stamped, except the adjustment pieces on the tierod ends. Those threaded "tubes" that have clamps on them are a stamped and threaded piece. If the spindles move, it's usually a sign of worn out ball joints.
You might also look and determine if the spindle is actually mvoing, or if the tire is moving and spindle is solid, which would mean worn out or out of adjustment wheel bearings. If you get worn bearings, and worn ball joints, the frontend will get really sloppy.
I found out that once I got in and started with ball joints, then I discovered several other things like A arm bushings, tierod ends, etc. all needed replacement. But once it's done it's amazing how tight the steering feels!
You might also look and determine if the spindle is actually mvoing, or if the tire is moving and spindle is solid, which would mean worn out or out of adjustment wheel bearings. If you get worn bearings, and worn ball joints, the frontend will get really sloppy.
I found out that once I got in and started with ball joints, then I discovered several other things like A arm bushings, tierod ends, etc. all needed replacement. But once it's done it's amazing how tight the steering feels!
#6
On the uppers I usually don't drill out the rivets. It's tough to get in there straight, so I just use an angle grinder and a cutoff wheel to remove the heads and then just drift punch them out. I always remove the bolts on the ball joints that connect to the spindle first. It's easier to do them when you have coil spring pressure to help pop them free. Just remember to back the nut off about 1/4" until you pop them free, then with a floor jack underneath you can remove the nuts and lower the arm to relieve spring pressure.
Be sure to remove the caliper before starting, but leave the hose connected. I tie the caliper up out of the way with iron wire, so I can keep stress off the hose.
#7
A high and low pattern on the tire tread can be from worn out shocks, which allows the tires to hop up and down when you hit bumps. I doubt you'd be putting worn shocks back onto a newly rebuilt front suspension though.
#8
Also, an out-of-balance tire.
#10
Your front end is out of alignment. It has too much positive camber (top of the tire tilted out), which is what's wearing the front part of the tread down.
That's a moot point now though, since you're going to be replacing the front suspension stuff, and getting an alignment.
That's a moot point now though, since you're going to be replacing the front suspension stuff, and getting an alignment.
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