Very basic front-end work

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Old Jan 15, 2013 | 07:53 PM
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Default Very basic front-end work

I was doing a weekly check to see if anything was low or wearing out.
Noticed that both of my front tires are wearing out in a choppy pattern.
I jacked up the front end and the spindles are moving in and out really badly. My question is, are any parts pressed or stamped in place?
 
Attached Thumbnails Very basic front-end work-parts2.jpg  

Last edited by oldman9; Jan 15, 2013 at 09:15 PM.
Old Jan 16, 2013 | 12:23 PM
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No, none of the frontend parts are stamped, except the adjustment pieces on the tierod ends. Those threaded "tubes" that have clamps on them are a stamped and threaded piece. If the spindles move, it's usually a sign of worn out ball joints.
You might also look and determine if the spindle is actually mvoing, or if the tire is moving and spindle is solid, which would mean worn out or out of adjustment wheel bearings. If you get worn bearings, and worn ball joints, the frontend will get really sloppy.
I found out that once I got in and started with ball joints, then I discovered several other things like A arm bushings, tierod ends, etc. all needed replacement. But once it's done it's amazing how tight the steering feels!
 
Old Jan 17, 2013 | 12:41 PM
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Thats a good point, I guess I should do the bearings while I have everything apart and in the air. Thank you!

 
Old Jan 18, 2013 | 05:43 AM
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The lower ball joints are pressed into the arm.
The uppers are riveted in place, but a drill motor, 1/4 inch drill bit takes care of removing the rivets.

Define your 'choppy pattern.'
 
Old Jan 18, 2013 | 08:51 AM
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It has high and low pattern worn into the tire all the way around it. Whats the easiest way to remove the lower ball-joint?
 
Old Jan 18, 2013 | 10:47 AM
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Originally Posted by oldman9
It has high and low pattern worn into the tire all the way around it. Whats the easiest way to remove the lower ball-joint?
I usually take the control arm off and press them out on my 12 ton press, but if you don't have a press you can drop the lowers off at a shop and have them press them out and press new ones in cheap.
On the uppers I usually don't drill out the rivets. It's tough to get in there straight, so I just use an angle grinder and a cutoff wheel to remove the heads and then just drift punch them out. I always remove the bolts on the ball joints that connect to the spindle first. It's easier to do them when you have coil spring pressure to help pop them free. Just remember to back the nut off about 1/4" until you pop them free, then with a floor jack underneath you can remove the nuts and lower the arm to relieve spring pressure.
Be sure to remove the caliper before starting, but leave the hose connected. I tie the caliper up out of the way with iron wire, so I can keep stress off the hose.
 
Old Jan 18, 2013 | 11:00 AM
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A high and low pattern on the tire tread can be from worn out shocks, which allows the tires to hop up and down when you hit bumps. I doubt you'd be putting worn shocks back onto a newly rebuilt front suspension though.
 
Old Jan 18, 2013 | 11:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Camaro 69
A high and low pattern on the tire tread can be from worn out shocks, which allows the tires to hop up and down when you hit bumps. I doubt you'd be putting worn shocks back onto a newly rebuilt front suspension though.
Also, an out-of-balance tire.
 
Old Jan 18, 2013 | 02:14 PM
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Heres a pic. And shocks are on my list now aswell...
 
Attached Thumbnails Very basic front-end work-tire1.jpg  
Old Jan 18, 2013 | 02:22 PM
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Your front end is out of alignment. It has too much positive camber (top of the tire tilted out), which is what's wearing the front part of the tread down.
That's a moot point now though, since you're going to be replacing the front suspension stuff, and getting an alignment.
 
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