how can i get my 78 camaro hooked up better.i have 5-leaf springs ,both side brand new.i have traction bars,they are the cheap ones.they u-bolt to the front of the leaf and u-bolt to the back.the subframes are connected.brand new shocks(kyb).the rear swaybar is in place.ihave a 3.70 posi-trac and i'm running 275/60-15's on the reari have a 454 with a 400 turbo.what else can i do to get it to hook up without burning the tires off.from a dead stop it scorches the tires.from a 20 mph roll it scorches the tires.what bolt on's or after market parts can i put on the car to help out with the traction.i'm open to anything.spinning your tires off dont make you fast,looks impressive.if you need more info,let me know.i probably have about 400-450hp.no way of knowing for sure,never had it dynoed.thanks alot guy for an help you can provide.

 

are you running 90/10 shocks in the front? i had a bad problem with weight distribution on take off. i installed 90/10 struts and removed the front stablizer and it helped alot. Sick

 

thanks sick,i'm not sure what the front shocks are other than they are replacement shocks for a 78 camaro.i know they are kyb shocks.you think i need to tweek the front instead of the rear or a combination of both.i know its probably going to be hard to get street tires to hook up,but damn.the tires are cooper cobras.the rear fender wells havent been touched so i'm really about as wide as i can go without cutting something and thats not an option,with a new paint job

 

90/10 drag shocks are designed to force the front end up during takeoff and push the weight to the rear. removing the front stablizer will enhance the effect. you can take this with a grain of salt but, was told by alot of racers that removing the rear stabilzer also helps.
by allowing the the torgue wheel being the right one to bite harder. the reasoning is one tire with alot of weight will bite harder than two with less weight i guess. anyways, i removed mine but cannot say for sure how much it helped. i do know that once i removed mine she started getting squirrly during burnouts. took awhile to get used to it. between the 90/10's in the front, the removal of both stablizers, and the hoosier slicks when properly heated i very seldom spin any off the line. i ran cooper cobras before i got my slicks. they work better if they aren't heated. they get greasy after a burnout and will make the spinning worse. not sure about the difference between second and third gen fender clearance but, i didn't have to modify anything to put the hoosier's (27x10x15) on mine and they are approx 13" wide including the sidewall. they do protrude out quite a bit, but with the difference they made i can deal with it for now. they are acutally nascar slicks. i got them with 90% tread left on ebay for 25 bucks a piece. if your running a 7.5 rearend they are perfect since they put less stress on the axle than a wrinkle wall. good luck. sick

 

thanks again sick.i will try removing the rear sway bar and changing shocks.i can get the nascar pull-offs all day long.my dirt track buddy sales them for 25.00 a piece.

 

Sticky tires are the #1 thing you can do. The NASCAR tires I don't think will work all that well as they are not made for all out straight line traction, but for $25, give them a shot.

 

After doing what Sick and JD suggested, you may want to try shifting some of the weigt to the back, like sticking the battery in the trunk. You may also want to try rear drag springs, with the right spring stiffer but the same ride height as the left one. I am not too sure about removing the rear sway bar, but definetely get rid of the front one. If it still won't hook up, you will have to tub the rear and put in some really fat tires. Also, you can try the old trick of moving the rear axle forward about a foot, but it will require body work and really make the back of the car useless.

 

this is a street driven car.will taken the front swaybar off make the car handle differently.i can relocate the battery to the trunk,no problem.would putting lead in the trunk help as far as rear weight % goes or does that put a band-aid on the problem.i appreciate the guys that have put some input in.anytime i have a serious question you guys come thru with some advise,maybe wrong and it maybe right.that little bit of advise no matter how small may just fix someones problem and thats what its all about.i appreciate all the input,good or bad.larry

 

removing the stabilizers will definately mess the handling up. you need slicks and some drag shocks. Sick

 

i got a second gen and i bought those summit adjustable shocks and they where pretty cheap they work really well then i bought a set of the comp enginering j bolt traction bars they do not even touch the spring they blt to your axle and the reach all the way to the spring eye so all the power goes straight to the axle and as far as tires i would go with the micket thompson indy profile ss they say the work okay on the street but when you heat them up they get almost as sticky as a drag slick. this is the same setup on mine and it sticks every time and i have around 425hp. you can do this whole setup for about $600 a small price to pay for good traction