Thanks for posting that diagram Vall, appreciate you trying to help me out sir. From looking at the pic, it appears I don't use the magnetic pickup wires after all. I understand what to do from the picture pretty well now. One thing I'm still not sure of is the ground. Pretty plain to see that I ground the terminal in the 3-wire connector hanging off the distributor. Do I also ground the ground terminal in the cap? This diagram doesn't show what to do with that. I don't get why there isn't any better/more info on how to wire the ignition box to one of these distributors since they seem be getting used by a lot of people? Someone HAS to have wired up a 6AL MSD, Mallory, Procomp etc. ignition to one of these type of distributors! Again, very much appreciate you trying to help me out with this, I got a lot of wiring done yesterday on the Camaro. Actually, if I wanted to start it today, I could, just without the ignition box hooked up. Just have to wire in the relay for the electric fan, dump fluids in and hook up the battery! That's why I have an urgency for finding out this ignition wiring, and about the grounds to block/frame/body etc.

 

Here's another link that might also help, as it's the instructions that come with every 6A and AL, and cover every scenario you could think of for MSD and different distributors.
http://www.msdignition.com/uploadedF...structions.pdf
Unfortunately, they don't cover a Pro Comp, as MSD doesn't recognize them as a "player" in the high end game. I wired one to a friend's 350 with the Pro Comp distributor, and simply called MSD and got hooked up to their tech line. The tech told me which of the instructions on the link I posted, was the right diagram to use.
Unfortunately my buddy's Pro Comp blew apart in two weeks, and he tossed it, and went to a Pertronix distributor. Had to rewire it, but that was simple with the Pertronix, as it wired like a points distributor with a 6AL box.

 

Thanks for the link sir, I was going to call MSD tomorrow to confirm everything but don't think I need to now. I tried to get ahold of Procomp (new name Speedmaster) today and collectively wasted over 2 hours of my time. They have a "live chat" button to get questions answered and I tried 3 different times. First two times I actually waited over an hour and got no one. Last time (and the window is still open and waiting) has been over 7 hours+. They don't provide a phone number to call ANYWHERE on their site and I even sent an email asking for help. I got nothing back. Anyway, I sure hope your friends problems with the PC distributor were from an older version. The one I bought came with a lifetime warranty and the listing said ZERO failures with thousands sold. That's the reason I bought it, tried to save some $ and get a lifetime warranty as well.


Vall, can you please let me know about grounding the battery negative to the motor mount (block side) and then from there to the frame also? I realize that the motor mounts connect to both the block and frame, that's why I'm asking if that's ok? I have a ground strap (big one) from the back of the block to the firewall already and would really like to get these grounds finished up. Reason I ask is there's really not anywhere else on that side to run the battery ground that I can see. The old one was grounded on top of the alternator bracket and now I have a new one without holes in it to run a screw/bolt through.


I broke down and tainted my stock console today with a big hole in it for the trans temp gauge. I went back and forth for a long time trying to decide whether or not to mount it in the console. It came down to not wanting to mess around with gauge pods etc. and it actually looks really, really good where I put it, I think. I still have room (since I have now put one hole in it) to get some cup holders in there. Should work out good when all is said and done. Here's a couple pics.


Got a lot more done today, and still going back out in a few. Fab'd a relay and 6 fuse panel mounting plate to mount on the core support and that turned out pretty good. Have relays for fan and the headlight upgrade harness in that area. Still have to get the relays mounted and finish the wiring for the fan but it's coming along good. I am not digging all this wiring but at least it's getting done. Had to remove the instrument cluster again so I could get the dang new speedo cable onto the back of the speedo. Broke two of the tabs back off that I had glued 2 years ago when I did the white gauge faces. Figures. I am shooting for a Thursday fire up date and hopefully that goes well. If so, Friday will be the fenders and nose piece and hopefully going for a spin in the evening! Got a crap load of pics but I doubt anyone wants to see a bunch of wires laying on the floor.


Oh yeah, I'm excited that I figured out a way to get the new seats mounted without having to use the sliders/rails off the stock seats!

 

I run my ground cable from the battery to the frame first. Then under the same bolt I run a equal sized jumper cable from the frame to the block. If you don't have a handy 3/8 bolt hole on the head, or block, then pull one of the 3 bolts that hold the motor mount to the block out, and land it under one of those bolts. Probably not a more solid ground anywhere on a engine block than that. The mount through bolt could be used also, but would be my 2nd choice, not quite as good.

 

Good deal. I'm planning on a ground from the battery to the motor mount and then to the frame. Was going to mount a ground on the bar off the core support to the frame but that'll but under the battery when the inner fender/battery tray gets mounted. I'm sure I can figure something out. Waiting on some good new 4AWG ground cable to get here, tomorrow of course. With the new battery terminals that I'm using a standard ground cable won't attach to it real well so I'll have to wait until tomorrow to get those finished up.


I'm debating the initial start up of the Camaro without the ignition box hooked up first. Now that I know where all the wires go it shouldn't be a problem getting it all hooked up but sort of thought I should first make sure the car starts and everything else is working properly first. If there's any issues it might make it easier to troubleshoot/diagnose things without an extra set of wires/components to check. I might just do that. Have a solid day worth of work still left to do before I can try to fire it up but I am right there. Making a small panel for the switches to mount where the stock radio goes and have to get that finished up and the switches all connected. Fan wiring is complete, all gauges are connected and the cluster is ready to go back in. UPS just dropped off my Summit order with oil/trans fluid and the butterfly linkage kit, hope that stuff works for the scoop. Man, I hope everything works right!!

 

Will that distributor even work without a box ahead of it? There are good tech tips on how to check the MSD boxes to ensure you're getting spark prior to start up, and I always do so, so I wont have another issue that might mess things up.
When using a 6A or 6AL with points, you simply unplug the white wire and ground it, while holding the spark plug wire that goes from coil to distributor near a ground. It will fire a spark as long as you hold it.
On the Hall Effects distributor wiring, you do the same, except you use a shorting jumper across the two ungrounded leads that go to the distributor. Just unplug and jumper them, and the coil wire will spark to ground when held near a ground.
I'm fighting the neighbor's Mallory dual point this morning, and just finished checking his 6A to ensure it wasn't the issue. Seems there must be a problem in the dual point, and I may end up taking it to someone with a distributor machine, as it all checks good with an ohm meter.

 

Thanks Vall, I did read about how to check the box for proper operation but still think I'm going to hook up the ignition box after I get the Camaro running first. Yes, the distributor will work without an ignition box hooked up to it. All this wiring has me just about going insane, but all that's left now is connecting everything to the switches and fuse panel inside and it's finished, for now. Still have to put the cluster back in, and the console but I'll be glad to do that stuff for a little change of pace.


I did take a look at the hardware kit I got for the scoop linkage and it'll work beautifully! The rod did come pre-bent and couldn't line up more perfect from carb to scoop. I just have to swap out the chrome bracket that came on the scoop with the red one from the kit I just got. Easy enough. That was really the way to go for getting that linkage figure out, it was only $18.99. Forgot that I was still waiting on a throttle return spring bracket, that will be here tomorrow along with the new ground wire and bigger radiator support. Never knew there was two different sizes of radiator supports for these cars. I learned the hard way and still have to return the first one I got that was too small.


When I get ready to put the fenders back on would it be easier to do with the doors off? I really don't want to have to pull panels off just to unplug wiring if I don't have to right now. Without the nose piece on shouldn't it be manageable without a ton of carnage? Not real worried about paint right now, that's the one bonus I've got going for me when putting them back on. Already did a number on the edges getting them removed! Just wondering if I'll run into trouble with the doors still on. Actually, can anyone help me out with what kind of clip goes in the large hole where the fender bolts in behind the door above the top hinge? When I removed the fender I remember hearing something fall inside the hole when I took the bolt out and never got to see what they look like. Happened on both sides. I can post a pic if need be but hopefully someone will know what I'm talking about.


Lastly, when I get ready to start the Camaro, I know there won't be any gas getting to the carb for a little while. New tank, all new lines, two filters, a pump and a regulator to get through before the fuel gets to the carb. I'm wondering if there's a way to get the carb filled with fuel to keep it running long enough for the pump to get working. I know on other carbs there's some kind of vent that you can fill with fuel from a squire bottle/syringe but not on Edelbrock's. Not sure where I can fill with fuel on the Edy. Any advice there would help a bunch!

 

The support under the radiator is the same for both sizes, but the top hold down plates are two different lengths. On the bottom you just move the rubber pads to whichever location fits the radiator.

 

I realize that now, ordered the smaller size support plate the first time around. FedEx just dropped off the new/larger one. Any insight on the fender and/or fuel questions Vall? Hoping today is the day, got quite a few little things to get buttoned up but probably this evening I'm hitting the key! Had a rough night last night in the interior. I should've stopped when the first part of the instrument panel cover broke. Can't believe I did that. I now have a completely broken and worthless windshield wiper switch as well as a broken tab off the bottom part of the gauge cover plate. The part that goes around the steering column, that broke off too! Apparently I was a little rough last night, somehow the heater control slider mechanism is now broken away from the plastic as it's pretty much flopping around back there. THAT'S why I didn't want to have to remove the cluster again! What a horrible design the wiper switch in this car is. Square box held in by a metal bracket with tabs that bend over to hold it in place. Plus, the headlight switch is too big and ridiculous to try and get shoved into the dash and the face plate back on over it! This really sucks, did more harm than good last night. Anyway, I'm hoping today is a better, more productive day. Waiting on the mail man to bring my ground cable and return spring bracket, kinda need those. Finishing up the seat brackets I'm making so I can put the new seats in also. Guess I better get busy!


Vall, if you have any insight on the fender question as well as the fuel in the Edy carb I would be most appreciative. Thanks in advance.

 

Considering what a hassle it is to R&R the doors, I wouldn't remove them to install the fenders. There's one bolt that's a pain to get at, but it's still easier than R&R the doors to make that bolt easier.
I just have a squirt bottle of gas, and give a shot down the carb venturis to get it fired. Might die and need a couple tries this way, but after that the fuel should be through the lines and keep it running. I know you can fill Holleys easy, but even with them I've never bothered. The squirt bottle always works for me, or even just a small cup of gas to pour some down the carb.