Fbodywarehouse They have tons of them.

 

Thanks! I forgot about that site.

 

I guess I'm starting my ''winter'' activities today. I noticed that she was hard to start and lagged alot when I hit the gas. I pulled the spark plugs once more and found that plugs 1-7 where fine with very small amounts of brown on it from a carb that could be tuned better.

Number 8 was covered from the tip of the electrode to the threads with oily carbon. A quick look inside the cylinder with my borescope camera showed that it did not look much better. My best guess is that on of the rings failed and let oil blow past it.
Would I be correct in guessing that I'll haft to pull the block back out and fix it that way?
I'm almost sure that the oil pan wont come off with in installed.....

On a lighter note, I found a set of double hump heads for $150. Dose that seem good for a complete pair? Look like they need new seals and re-lapped.

 

Yes 150 is a good deal. Some guys charge out the rear for them. I have seen smog heads go for that much. As for your oil, yeah it could be a bad ring. It could be a bad valve seal as well. Do a compression check to determine the ring situation. Be sure to get the motor up to operating temp before doing it. Then don't burn your fingers (yeah right). The actual PSI isn't a big a deal is having one cylinder much lower than the rest. Here is a good article on leak down.
How to do Cylinder Leak Down Testing- Car Craft Magazine

And here's a compression test.
Crank Compression Test - Super Chevy Magazine

I wouldn't consider tearing an engine down with out at least a compression test.

To answer your other question the engine has to be on a stand to change a ring. I suppose it is possible to do it in the car but its actually easier to pull it.If in fact the rings are bad, you'll need a couple of tools. A ridge reamer and a dingle ball hone. The ridge reamer is only needed on a high mileage motor. I prefer a dingle ball hone because they are cheap and its hard to screw up with one.

I bet it a seal though. I hope so a least. Those are cheap and not real hard to change even in the car. Good luck.

 

A compression test will determine if there's an issue with one cylinder or more, but it wont tell you if it's rings or valves guides. Either can cause your problem, but guides are much easier, and cheaper.
If you're getting new heads, you might consider a complete rebuild of the heads before installing. If the engine has many miles, I would also rebuild the engine too, as new good sealing valves and guides will put more pressure on old rings, and then you'll have it apart for the rest later.

 

Yeah, you guys are both right.
I did a parts list to see how much I'll need to set aside to do the rebuild. I'm over guessing a little to compensate for unforeseen problems that I might find after I get everything apart. Thanks for the help.

 

My theory is if the compression is low on that cylinder then the rings are shot. If we know the plug on cylinder X is fouled by oil and compression is within say 10-15% of the others. I would replace the valve seals. If compression was low on cylinder X I would go through the engine. The amount of dollars in my checking account would determine how much work I do. If it were a daily driver like my 86 pick up. The ding ball hone and rings and bearings are all I would do. If I pulled a main or rod cap and found hideous scaring, I would swap the crank. I say swap because my local guys have them already cut and waiting, I can walk in and grab a 10/10 or whatever with bearings for around $100 and be on my way without waiting for machine time.

 

Problem with that theory is it doesn't account for a cracked valve, or seat, and a worn out guide. Often they happen together and can create the same condition as broken rings. A broken compression ring can lower compression, and not create a fouled plug, but a broken or worn out oil ring will not lower compression, but still fould plugs. Good compression doesn't always mean valve guides if the problem is the oil rings.

 

I'm working on pulling together all the parts and what-not to get the engine rebuild done in the shortest amount of time possible.
I found a 350 vortec engine that looks to be in good shape. They went to a bigger engine size and no longer need this one.
I could really use the heads and I also wanted to convert over to the newer serpentine belt stile. The biggest thing I'll haft to buy if the heads fit my block would be a new intake. As said before the bolts are different from the Tbi-Vortec heads.
Heres some pics of the engine. Thoughts?

 

Good points Val. I didn't see your reply sooner. I never claimed to know it all. I just have a better handle then alot of other guys.