water pump suggestions
#11
05-23-2011, 09:51 AM
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: The 'Burbs of Chicago
Posts: 18,306
If you sat in hot summer traffic long enough, I'm sure you'll see the temp rise above where it's going now. With no stat, the coolant will just keep getting hotter, and hotter, and hotter since the radiator won't be radiating the heat off like it's designed to. Think about it from the other side, if you wanted to heat up water. Which would heat faster, a long length of looped copper pipe circulating and passing a small section over a flame on your cooktop, or water sitting still in a pot? The way a cooling system works is the same concept, only in reverse. That's what your friend is referring to. If your engine can't stay cool with a stat in place, your radiator more than likely isn't carrying it's weight, or you're not getting sufficient air flow through it.
#12
05-23-2011, 07:21 PM
Your friend is correct, a T stat is required to properly cool the engine, but you should run a lower setting, like a 170 degree. Flex fans, and shrouds contribute greatly to engine cooling. Most flex fans don't cool well, so when moving the air flows better and they cool better. A stock clutch fan works much better, and moves more air at idle.
The condenser for the AC will definitely restrict some air flow, and once it's working AC it will also cause more cooling issues with the heat it will add. Make sure you have the largest radiator that's made for the 2nd gen Camaros. If it's the 26" wide one, then it's the small radiator, and a 33" wide optional radiator is much better. The core support needs to be opened up for the 33", but it's marked out at the factory, so easy to do with a jigsaw, or nibbler.
The condenser for the AC will definitely restrict some air flow, and once it's working AC it will also cause more cooling issues with the heat it will add. Make sure you have the largest radiator that's made for the 2nd gen Camaros. If it's the 26" wide one, then it's the small radiator, and a 33" wide optional radiator is much better. The core support needs to be opened up for the 33", but it's marked out at the factory, so easy to do with a jigsaw, or nibbler.
I guess I may look to put a clutch/fan on and dump the flex fan.
I'll take a close look at the radiator too.. pull it out and eyeball it good.. Also, I need to make sure the A/C consdensor isn't to dirty. .
So, if the thermostat is needed for effective cooling at low speeds/no speed, then why would a hi-flow water pump do any good? I mean, all the thermostat is doing is restricting flow.
Also, any one have any thoughts on the "water additive" stuff? Does it lower the temps? I have read about the chemistry behind the stuff, seems to make sense... but in real like application? any one have any experience with that?
Thanks!
#13
05-24-2011, 03:21 AM
In the GA heat mine didn't overheat sittin at idle with a flex fan, mine stayed right at 180! But mine may be an exception to what BB427 said. And I also took the shroud off since it wouldn't stay in place and kept making contact with the fan. I know the shroud is supposed to make the air flow through the radiator better but I think it made it better without the shroud.
#14
05-24-2011, 09:01 AM
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Portland, Or
Posts: 9,097
All car engines are different, and a fairly stock engine can get by on much less than one that's built, or bored out. My 427 never overheated with a 2 row radiator that had .5" rows. But once it was bored .060" it was a different story, and now I've got the biggest, baddest radiator I could fit in there, which required cutting the core support lower mount off and building new mounts.
Be sure your radiator is also a thick one too. Mine is two 1" rows, welded aluminum now. The two 1" rows cool much better than a 4 row with .5" rows, and if you've got a 2 row or 3 row you can add cooling by going that way.
A high flow pump doesn't always increase cooling, as it can defeat the ability to keep fluid in the radiator, so it's not a cure for overheating most times.
Be sure your radiator is also a thick one too. Mine is two 1" rows, welded aluminum now. The two 1" rows cool much better than a 4 row with .5" rows, and if you've got a 2 row or 3 row you can add cooling by going that way.
A high flow pump doesn't always increase cooling, as it can defeat the ability to keep fluid in the radiator, so it's not a cure for overheating most times.
#15
05-25-2011, 10:47 AM
This is an interesting discussion, about radiators and water pumps.. etc.. Because this thread was originally someone else's post/question, I am going to re-post my question(s) in a new post. Thanks for the help to this point.
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