If you take your block and put it together using the same components as the LT-1 had, then yes, it would be like the LT-1. But better internal parts are available in the aftermarket, as well as better flowing head designs, which means you can surpass what the original LT-1 had in performance. Don't forget that the best performing of the old LT-1's had 11:1 c.r., which is a little too high to run on today's pump gas.

 

yeah thanks for that. i wasnt comparing it to the LT1 but if you took both blocks bought 2 of each part would the block in my truck and the block from a 1970 LT1 be identical? if they had the same mileage life (not one bored .060 over and one .030)?

 

Is the orginal LT1 block a 4 bolt main?

 

Yes, the original LT-1 had 4 bolt mains. Something I'm sure his truck block doesn't have.

 

Brownstone, you're correct in thinking that if all the LT-1 parts were installed in another later 350 with 4 bolt mains it would then be identical in every way to an old original LT-1. As mentioned, this depends on whether your engine has the 4 bolt mains, and the correct heads to make it a LT1.
Be sure to measure and count threads when removing your old tie rod ends! If you get everything as close as possible it can be driven to a lineup shop afterwards to have the alignment checked. Don't swap out the ends without having an alignment afterwards! If you don't do this it will be better to leave the old ends for now.

 

im going to tomorrow do an alignment job at the school on there lifts they have with a buddy of mine. gonna do the inside outside tire job with a tape measure. were the front is brought in maybe a 1/4" than the outside edge tread line is so you know you have 1/4" worth of angle of toe in.
o and yeah caster/camber are all Fed up. can anyone tell me if the shims from left side to right side should be identical or not? mine aren't shimmed identical and the outside of my tires wear down quicker than the inside so i think im a few degrees + on the camber and if my toe is off causing vibrations and a drag effect on the edge causing them to get destroyed. they were used wore out tires anyways so its ok.

ima do the tie rod ends soon and maybe some front end work and get it aligned then. this is to hold me over why i do work.

 

Shim are for Shimming. They make up for variation in manufacturing and wear and tear. If the car is in alignment they are right. There is no reason to think they should be even side to side. Outside edge tire wear is normal on a car with loose steering. When ever you go around a corner the tire loads on the outside edge of the outside tire. I would not try to make any adjustments to caster or camber without the correct equipment.

 

yeah i wasn't planning on going about that job. i will however need to remove that upper control arm to replace bushings. and was wondering if i should make them the same or after bushings replaced tell them that its of concern and ask them to reset all of it back to spec. i think it has been messed around with in its lifetime because i look at my dads 70. the shims on top were equal left to right side. mine is way out. so i bet it is. it acts like it is but for now i can manage. with just getting the toe and linkage centered.

my car had about 1/4th of a turn to the right just to go in a straight line. i took a look one set of tie rods were touching each other in the sleeve. the other side was about 2 full turns from coming undone. once i straighted and centered the whole setup and the geometry. i was able to correct the searing issues it had. all im going to do is now take a tape measure and try and get a more correct toe angle. once i have that replace tie rod ends and bushings and get aligned.

 

I would ALWAYS replace the shims exactly as they came out when doing new control arm bushings. Let the alignment shop rearrange them as needed once they check it and see what it needs. It's normal for the shims to be different, and a rare thing for them to be the same, or not have any shims.
As for the 1/4" of toe in or toe out, I would not want that much in a front end myself. A slight toe in is fine, but 1/4" not so much I think.