VIN Question
Fourth Generation Moderator
October 2009 ROTM
October 2009 ROTM
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Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 10,560
From: Eastern PA,
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We would need to know the Vin to see what is off. Also verify the Vin on the title. There is not much information in the Vin number. If you are looking for options information you need the info off the cowl tag.
VIN info from 1967 - 1971 were in the same format. The breakdown is as follows:
1st digit: GM Line number: Chevrolet = 1.
2nd digit: Series number: Camaro = 2
3rd digit: Model/Engine number:
3 = 6-cylinder (1967-69 with standard interior) , 4 = V8 (1967-69 with standard interior or 70-71)
5 = 6 cylinder (1967 - 69 with custom interior) , 6 = V8 (1967 - 69 with custom interior)
4th & 5th digit: Body Type Number:
37 = Sport Coupe (1967-69) 67 = Convertible (1967-69) 87 = Sport Coupe (1970-71)
6th digit: Last digit of model year:
7 = 1967, 8 = 1968, 9 = 1969, 0 = 1970, 1 = 1971
7th digit: Letter indicating assembly plant
L = Van Nuys, California, N = Norwood, Ohio
8th through 12th digits: Sequential production number starting with 100001.
VIN info from 1967 - 1971 were in the same format. The breakdown is as follows:
1st digit: GM Line number: Chevrolet = 1.
2nd digit: Series number: Camaro = 2
3rd digit: Model/Engine number:
3 = 6-cylinder (1967-69 with standard interior) , 4 = V8 (1967-69 with standard interior or 70-71)
5 = 6 cylinder (1967 - 69 with custom interior) , 6 = V8 (1967 - 69 with custom interior)
4th & 5th digit: Body Type Number:
37 = Sport Coupe (1967-69) 67 = Convertible (1967-69) 87 = Sport Coupe (1970-71)
6th digit: Last digit of model year:
7 = 1967, 8 = 1968, 9 = 1969, 0 = 1970, 1 = 1971
7th digit: Letter indicating assembly plant
L = Van Nuys, California, N = Norwood, Ohio
8th through 12th digits: Sequential production number starting with 100001.
Last edited by Gorn; Dec 11, 2023 at 09:06 PM.
4th Gear Member
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 2,247
From: Yacolt,WA
If it a complete fiberglass hood or just a glass scoop moulded onto a stock metal hood?
4th Gear Member
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 2,247
From: Yacolt,WA
That's what I figured,of course you'll have to repaint it but a fibreglass repair kit you can get almost anywhere should fix it.
You'll need to sand it down to clean glass and or metal where it's failing so it'll be some work and then repaint.
The other option would be buy a complete hood in the style you want,what was done with your car was pretty common and not unusual to fail at some point.
You'll need to sand it down to clean glass and or metal where it's failing so it'll be some work and then repaint.
The other option would be buy a complete hood in the style you want,what was done with your car was pretty common and not unusual to fail at some point.
Fourth Generation Moderator
October 2009 ROTM
October 2009 ROTM
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 10,560
From: Eastern PA,
ROTM Winner's Club
It has been my personal experience that hood modification like you described are prone to cracking. The two materials (Steel and fiberglass) grow and shrink at different rates. Every time the engine warms up it warms the hood. The metal expands more and faster then the fiberglass. Over time it cracks. I have seen fiberglass last a long time on other body parts its just the hood get hot every drive. Other body panels only get hot from the sun.
In my opinion:
If you doing the repair yourself and the only cost to you is the paint and your time you could repair it. Depending on how often you drive it and how you store it (out of direct sun) a repair could last for years. You want to use a multi directional long fiber fiberglass. I used Tiger Hair in the past. Do both sides of the crack. I used to use a cut wheel and open the crack up to be sure I got enough product inside that I did not sand most of the new material away while I was trying to get the area flat before paint.
If you plan on paying a pro to do the paint just find a good hood. Either all fiberglass or all metal. Either one would be a permanent repair. If I did fiberglass hood I would do hood pins. Some smaller fiberglass hoods can get away with no hood pins but as you know the second gen hood is massive. It cars I have road in the fiberglass hood would start bound in the outer front corners.
If you really like the L88 cowl or you have to have the hood clearance, search the net for pictures of race cars. I have seen guys cut hood and use screws to hold the fiberglass scopes. You can use a flexible bond like RTV to keep water out and if you use stainless screws and place them evenly It should be a 20 year repair if not life time. You problem would then be getting the old fiberglass off your old hood. The RTV and screws should allow enough give so thinks should not crack. I like a flat black hood on a modified car
In my opinion:
If you doing the repair yourself and the only cost to you is the paint and your time you could repair it. Depending on how often you drive it and how you store it (out of direct sun) a repair could last for years. You want to use a multi directional long fiber fiberglass. I used Tiger Hair in the past. Do both sides of the crack. I used to use a cut wheel and open the crack up to be sure I got enough product inside that I did not sand most of the new material away while I was trying to get the area flat before paint.
If you plan on paying a pro to do the paint just find a good hood. Either all fiberglass or all metal. Either one would be a permanent repair. If I did fiberglass hood I would do hood pins. Some smaller fiberglass hoods can get away with no hood pins but as you know the second gen hood is massive. It cars I have road in the fiberglass hood would start bound in the outer front corners.
If you really like the L88 cowl or you have to have the hood clearance, search the net for pictures of race cars. I have seen guys cut hood and use screws to hold the fiberglass scopes. You can use a flexible bond like RTV to keep water out and if you use stainless screws and place them evenly It should be a 20 year repair if not life time. You problem would then be getting the old fiberglass off your old hood. The RTV and screws should allow enough give so thinks should not crack. I like a flat black hood on a modified car
Last edited by Gorn; Dec 13, 2023 at 05:58 AM.
Thread Starter
|
Newbie
Joined: Dec 2023
Posts: 8
From: Denver
Well, I'm part of the club. Bought the car this week. Runs and drivers great. Getting some great responses here and good direction for hood repair. The engine has a Weiand blower, so need L88 to clear air filter assembly. Going to go the path of repairing hood, I think, thanks for help.
Thread Starter
|
Newbie
Joined: Dec 2023
Posts: 8
From: Denver
It has been my personal experience that hood modification like you described are prone to cracking. The two materials (Steel and fiberglass) grow and shrink at different rates. Every time the engine warms up it warms the hood. The metal expands more and faster then the fiberglass. Over time it cracks. I have seen fiberglass last a long time on other body parts its just the hood get hot every drive. Other body panels only get hot from the sun.
In my opinion:
If you doing the repair yourself and the only cost to you is the paint and your time you could repair it. Depending on how often you drive it and how you store it (out of direct sun) a repair could last for years. You want to use a multi directional long fiber fiberglass. I used Tiger Hair in the past. Do both sides of the crack. I used to use a cut wheel and open the crack up to be sure I got enough product inside that I did not sand most of the new material away while I was trying to get the area flat before paint.
If you plan on paying a pro to do the paint just find a good hood. Either all fiberglass or all metal. Either one would be a permanent repair. If I did fiberglass hood I would do hood pins. Some smaller fiberglass hoods can get away with no hood pins but as you know the second gen hood is massive. It cars I have road in the fiberglass hood would start bound in the outer front corners.
If you really like the L88 cowl or you have to have the hood clearance, search the net for pictures of race cars. I have seen guys cut hood and use screws to hold the fiberglass scopes. You can use a flexible bond like RTV to keep water out and if you use stainless screws and place them evenly It should be a 20 year repair if not life time. You problem would then be getting the old fiberglass off your old hood. The RTV and screws should allow enough give so thinks should not crack. I like a flat black hood on a modified car
In my opinion:
If you doing the repair yourself and the only cost to you is the paint and your time you could repair it. Depending on how often you drive it and how you store it (out of direct sun) a repair could last for years. You want to use a multi directional long fiber fiberglass. I used Tiger Hair in the past. Do both sides of the crack. I used to use a cut wheel and open the crack up to be sure I got enough product inside that I did not sand most of the new material away while I was trying to get the area flat before paint.
If you plan on paying a pro to do the paint just find a good hood. Either all fiberglass or all metal. Either one would be a permanent repair. If I did fiberglass hood I would do hood pins. Some smaller fiberglass hoods can get away with no hood pins but as you know the second gen hood is massive. It cars I have road in the fiberglass hood would start bound in the outer front corners.
If you really like the L88 cowl or you have to have the hood clearance, search the net for pictures of race cars. I have seen guys cut hood and use screws to hold the fiberglass scopes. You can use a flexible bond like RTV to keep water out and if you use stainless screws and place them evenly It should be a 20 year repair if not life time. You problem would then be getting the old fiberglass off your old hood. The RTV and screws should allow enough give so thinks should not crack. I like a flat black hood on a modified car