Nothing wrong with the intake you have. Not much different than an RPM.

 

I'll be testing for shorts tonight. Nothing like asking for advice and not getting a chance to work on the car for over a week. I'll have the battery tested tomorrow and hopefully will have this fixed by end of the day. Thank again for the info BB427.

Appreciate the opinions on intakes too. Yes, the AFR's are aluminum with the 2.05/1.60 valves and all the machining...Can't wait for them to get here! Just found a deal from a local guy selling some comp cams aluminum full roller rockers (the red anodized) for $50, never used. Saved me over $250! I used to hear a lot about the Victor Jr. intakes, but that was years ago. Are the air gaps better?

I'll advise on the test results tomorrow.

 

I would normally jump in with a opinion on what you need. I'm kind of stumped. The reason is the 327. Its capable of all kinds of rpm and thats a good thing in my mind because your basically putting the same head I would put on a 383. If it wasn't capable of spinning up high enough to use the air flow the AFRs produce I'd say you were in trouble. So, if it were a 350 or larger I'd say go with the Air Gap and not really doubt myself. The 327 isn't ever gonna be a torque monster and the Victor Jr doesn't help make low end torque either. But it would be right at home up around 7g were the 327 plays. The flip side is you are gonna want some low end grunt to get you moving a 3500# camaro around town. Thats were the Air Gap shines. I guess I would use the air gap because from what I've read they don't give up much HP at higher RPM and the duel plane will be much more user friendly on the street.

 

OK, did some testing tonight and am getting a reading of 0.07 on most of the fuses (I tried them all) except for the guages slot. It's strange, when I first tested it, the meter went kinda crazy and shot up to something like 15.60 and I pulled the tester lead off and retested and then get absolutely NO reading at all, not even 0.00 - nothing. When I tested for a short, I used the same wire from the starter and the negative battery cable and got a reading of 0.07. Haven't started reconnecting the fuses yet, not even sure if that's a normal reading or not? Hope I'm closing in on it.

Nomad, the low end is what I was concerned about. The Air Gap's are becoming more compelling with this setup, thanks for the insight. I know it depends on the individual setup, I don't want to switch one issue for another changing the heads and intake on this engine.

 

Well, I thought I had the battery drain fixed, until I drove the car last night. I was getting a reading of 0.00ma on the tester after messing around with the wire from the starter that feeds the fuse box. Not really sure what I did but it was fixed for about 5 hours. I had reconnected the alternator, starter wires, all fuses and still got the 0.00 reading. I let the car sit with the cables on for about 5 hours and then retested and still looked good. I took the car for a ride and when I got home I quickly retested and now get the 0.33ma reading again. Ugh! I'm starting to suspect the problems somewhere in the fusible link wire from the starter. Don't know how the draw would reappear after driving the car. I had started the car twice and gotten the 0.00 ma reading, it wasn't until I drove it that it came back.
Here I go again.

 

It's possible the wire has a intermittent short. If it was mine I'd begin by opening up the wrap on the harness and tracing that wire all the way back to the end. At some point on it you may see something that shows signs of a bare spot, or short.

 

I've been trying to isolate the issue on the wire from the starter and I think I'm closing in on it, just can't figure out where the problem is. If I pull the wire from the starter, the draw goes away, I cleaned up the wire up to where it joins the other 3 or 4 wires for alternator, a/c feed etc. and it looks good there. Over by where the wire goes into the fuse box I've found a spot where all the wires in that loom have been damaged but retaped. If I put the wire on the starter, the draw comes back.

 

How many wires are connected to your starter? And when everything is connected and sitting for a bit, does your coil feel either warm or hot?

 

3 wires on the starter (excluding the ground wire attached to the frame) the purple wire, the red wire that's attached with the battery cable. If I pull either the red wire OR the battery cable off the draw goes away. I can leave the red wire on the starter and just pull the battery cable and the draw goes away also.
Excuse the ignorance again, are you talking about the ignition coil? The car has an HEI distributor, not sure what to feel. I've got the negative battery cable off, would I have to connect both?

 

With HEI, the coil is under the removable top cover of the distributor cap. It was just another curiosity, if something may be back-feeding it.