You simply unbolt the blower motor and the suitcase. (big box on the firewall) Then bolt this up and seal it, reinstall the blower. It still works the same just no AC.

 

Sorry for the delay in responding, spent last 3 days trying to get my computer working again after a nasty virus. Again, excuse my ignorance but I don't understand how to check the main fusible link? What would I do with the meter? Please don't laugh too hard but I don't know what that means "see if it reads to ground when disconnected." I haven't worked on the car either the last couple of days between the computer mess and having everything out of the garage to redo the floors. If possible, could you please elaborate a bit on how to check the wire that feeds the fuse box from the starter. Much appreciated.

Nomad, if that's what I would need to retain the heater in the car then I would be interested in that piece. Just give me a little time please, gotta prioritize....It would be nice if I could drive the car without having to disconnect the battery every time I stop somewhere.

 

Cool its just sitting on the shelf.

 

OK you'll need a volt.ohm meter. Put the meter to the resistance setting or ohm setting. Then pull the small wire from the starter that's hooked to the battery cable. That wire has a built in fuseable link. From the end of that wire to the feed side of any fuse will give you a reading that should be zero or maybe a few tenths at most. If it's more than the link if failing.
Make sure all the fuses are pulled next for the ground reading. Read from ground on the battery to the wire that you took the previous reading. If it reads to ground then there's a problem with a short on that wire, or the fuse block.

 

I'm sorry, but I still don't understand. I can follow instructions pretty well but I'm confused. I know the wire on the starter that's with the battery cable. I would take that off the starter? Would I take the reading where that wire comes into the fuse box? I don't know where I would put the tester leads.
Reading from ground on the battery to the wire I pulled off the starter? What does read to ground mean? I don't mean to frustrate you sir, I've just never done this before.
I noticed yesterday that when I connect the battery cable and before I start the car I can hear a humming sound from the headlight switch?

 

Disregard the headlight switch humming. I realized that I had not plugged the wire feeding the fusebox that said LPS back in.

 

OK, after pulling all the fuses you can check the fuseable link by pulling that small wire off the starter main input, the big 3/8" stud that the batt. cable also hooks to. Put one lead on the wire after it's off, and the other end goes to any fuse in the fuse block. You may have to extend your leads to reach both at the same time, and try both sides of any fuse to see which is the feed side. The wrong side wont get any reading.
To check for a short use the same wire with one lead, then take the other lead and connect to a good ground source. If you get a reading with all the fuses out there's a short somewhere in that wire, the fuse block, etc.
Be sure your alternator is not connected in any way during this reading to ground. If it all reads good, then connect the alternator and see if it still reads clear. Connect the fuses one at a time, and check the reading after each fuse until you see a reading that indicates a short.

 

I just learned something too! LOL

 

I still think you're going to eventually replace the alternator. I bet a diode is shorted inside and draining the battery.

 

I previously suggested he made sure he had a charged battery, then disconnect the alternator and let the car sit overnight. He did that and the battery still went dead.