Troubleshooting help please?

Old Jul 23, 2011 | 10:50 AM
  #31  
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**The moment of truth on the battery drain** = DEAD. Man, I wouldn't have known what to do with the extra 6 hours in my day if this was fixed! On a positive note, the battery wasn't completely dead, still had power to turn over once or twice (I didn't give it any gas.)

Seriously, like Nomad was saying, should a .30 draw kill a battery over night? I want to find out what is draining the battery but this is maddening. The dome light would be around .90 and I've left that on in my Cadillac plenty of times and didn't kill the battery. Think mabe this new battery is junk?

Regarding the blower, I was told something similar about the blower staying on, but until very recently the blower was on with a low setting. Now it sounds like it's set on medium with the switch, which is turned off along with the zone setting on top. The car does have A/C which is disconnected by previous owner but this blower is definitely running on a higher speed than it was last week.

Back to the garage I go....
 
Old Jul 24, 2011 | 09:47 PM
  #32  
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The car has sat for a day and is so drained it's like there isn't even a battery in the car.
 
Old Jul 25, 2011 | 02:33 AM
  #33  
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Are all the heater controls pointing to the left?
 
Old Jul 25, 2011 | 10:04 AM
  #34  
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Everything is turned off. Zone settings as well as the fan (to the left.)
 
Old Jul 25, 2011 | 10:23 AM
  #35  
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I went back to the beginning, and saw nowhere where you disconnected the alternator (after having a full battery charge), then let it sit overnight. Have you ruled out the alternator that way yet?
 
Old Jul 25, 2011 | 09:07 PM
  #36  
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Didn't let the car sit overnight with the alternator disconnected, just tested it with the meter and it still had the .33 reading. The battery is fully charged and it'll sit tonight disconnected.

I figured out that the fan running so fast was the a/c unit on the firewall. I disconnected it and the blower stopped. Don't need what's left of it anyway. Actually, can the big a/c unit that's bolted to the firewall be removed and the heater hoses re-connected without messing anything up? The condenser is already gone as well as the a/c hoses. I want the rest of it off the car for good. Doesn't seem too hard to get out of there after the right fender is taken off. I want the cruise control out of there too.
 
Old Jul 25, 2011 | 09:33 PM
  #37  
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Ok good. At least that will tell you for sure if it's the alternator or not. I'm figuring it has to be something under the hood, since you pulled all the fuses to test before. Or, did you pull all the fuses only as a draw test but not for an "overnight" test? Yes, you can remove the A/C firewall box, but you'll have a big gaping hole in the firewall. Look for a heater box from a non-A/C car, maybe you can find one on ebay.
 
Old Jul 25, 2011 | 11:51 PM
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I have a delete box I'll sell. $75 Its been put on with zip screws but never on a running car.
 
Old Jul 26, 2011 | 01:25 PM
  #39  
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It's not the alternator. Car was dead as hell this morning, like no battery was even in the car. 0.33 reading. I'll try tonight with the fuses left out. Every time I use the tester I'll hear a clicking sound around the fuse box, could be normal? I've tried unplugging all the wires that feed the fuse box and still get the same reading.

With the a/c, can I remove that box and still have heat or do I need a different box? Please forgive my ignorance, I don't know what it looks like or how that works. I found delete plates online or do I need an actual box?
 
Old Jul 26, 2011 | 08:42 PM
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[QUOTE=78 on my plate;555131]It's not the alternator. Car was dead as hell this morning, like no battery was even in the car. 0.33 reading. I'll try tonight with the fuses left out. Every time I use the tester I'll hear a clicking sound around the fuse box, could be normal?
QUOTE]

There's nothing that would make a clicking sound around the fuse block that could be called "normal". It very well could be a shrt that goes to ground each time you use the tester on a circuit after the fuse block. I suppose it could even be in the fuse block, or the connector through the firewall.
I think you need to pull all the fuses and with a meter check the main fusible link wire that feeds from the starter to the fuseblock. See if it reads to ground when disconnected and fuses pulled. If it does then you've got a short either in that wire, or the fuse block.
 

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