A sticky lifter can unstick, and might not come back for a long time. A fresh oil change, and some treatment in the oil will also usually take care of an occsaional sticky lifter.
If you did any more than idle the alternator should have kicked in. Mine kicks in just with normal start up at around 1500 rpm's.

 

A beautiful morning here in Northern Michigan! My wife now thinks I'm a bit crazy (now a bit more than normal) as I wake up and go running outside in my boxers to see if the car starts, and it does just fine! The little instruction sheet that came with the alternator said the RPM's need to get over 2500 for it to kick in, which I'm sure we achieved on our little road trip. I'm wondering if it wasnt the battery cable that I've been taking on and off was loose on the post? Once again, "why ask why" if it's fixed now I guess.
I'm really hoping I can call this problem fixed but.... There's still that pesky draw somewhere....

 

I'm not going to start another rant about this battery draw but after all this time, it it still there! If I start the car every day it works just fine, if I wait 2 days, it's dead.

 

Well I'll give you half a congratulations then.

 

It's taken me almost 2 months but I've managed to add a whole day before the car is completely dead! The new alternator helps, I just don't get where the draw is when I've got it traced up to where it goes into the fuse panel. I need to take the panel out and check still, just not exactly sure how to remove it. Have to remember, if I pull all the fuses, the draw is still there. Nutty..

 

I was going to start a new thread on this but I'm wondering the cost of changing the rear end gears would range? I gotta get rid of the stock 2.41 setup I've got rockin'. Don't know anything about how to do it so I would have to take it somewhere to be done. I would probably buy the parts myself.

 

It varies depending on the shop, and what you need. A set of gears will run you around $175. A carrier to go from 2 series gears to 3 or 4 will run around $450-$500, but you might find a used one cheaper. Set up runs around $300-$400 most places. You can reuse your carrier by using a ring gear spacer. They're around $50 and then you only need ring and pinion, plus set up. I found a local guy who changed gears in my Austin gasser's 10 bolt for $150, and we went the spacer route. He also had a good used set of 3.73 gears that I bought from him for $50. so you can save some if you ask around.
You'd be much better off to check the local Craigslist and find a complete rearend with the posi and gears you want. I see them in my area for around $150-$600 depending on how much has been done to them.

 

I have contemplated finding a used set up but in Northern Michigan, they don't seem to be very "readily available" and if they are, not sure I would exactly "trust" the setup I was buying either. Maybe I'll get lucky and find something around here soon. I'm prepared to pay to have mine re-worked, just wasn't sure what to expect for a price tag.

 

Sometimes a rearend swap is a better choice. Doesn't cost as much to swap in a rear axle that's the same width, and often you might pick up a newer axle that's got what you want, plus disc brakes too.
Here's a chaert that shows axle widths, so you could see what might interchange. Then it's just a case of getting some factory spring perches and welding them on the axle to bolt back in. Might have to also change the u joint on the driveline to match the new rear snout.
Rear End Widths

As you can see from the chart the '67-73 Fairlanes and Torinos use a 1 1/4" narrower width and are 9", so stronger also. The '70-79 is 1/2" wider. Either could work without much difficulty.

Might also check outside your area and have something shipped. I've seen completely rebuilt rearends cheaper than what a guy can build one for, and then just put your brakes and backing plates on.

 

Thanks very much for the chart showing some specs, I really appreciate that. I'll keep looking around for something, I've just become irritated with having 2.41 gears in this car. I can hold 1st gear to 60mph, so basically I don't even need 2nd or 3rd where I drive (sarchasm.) I've decided that this is a chore that I'd like to get finished before the snow flies here (which actually could be any day where I live) and just have it done for next spring when the motor/tranny will be done and in the car. I've been told by a few different people that the GM 8.5" 10 bolt rear end isn't really that bad, it's the 8.2" that's no good. I'm sure there's quite a few different opinions on this topic, but that's why I had thought about just having the rearend that's in the car re-worked. According to the chart, it looks like the chevy pickups are similar as well? There are a lot of those around northern michigan that I've seen. There are quite a few of the Ford 9" on the local craigslist but they're usually out of the trucks, not Torinos. I'm on the hunt!!!! If anyone happens to stumble across a decent setup, I'd welcome a "heads up". Thanks again for the chart.