torque converter????????

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  #11  
Old 04-14-2011, 03:29 PM
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Thanks gfrench that helps alot. I didn't know what kind of stall would be "streetable" since this is my daily driver first.

The paint job is 5k and they take it down to bare metal and start from scratch. I think i will just need to do some research on what is involved in removing the paint and using bondo or w/e to make the body totally straight. I figure if i do the sanding and body work myself, that could save me money on the paint job. That way i could afford the new parts and still get it painted.

I was just curious if it is as straight forward as it seems. I see it done on tv all the time, it looks like a ton of work but it seems doable. I think i will just need to bring it to the shop in order to get it primered and then i could do more sanding. That way when i bring it to paint there would be minimal work before it gets sprayed.

I'm new to the do-it-yourself lifestyle and you guys have all inspired me to just go for it. My main concern is, i dont want to get half way through body work and realize i'm in over my head.

Any opinions?
 
  #12  
Old 04-14-2011, 07:26 PM
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Stall has very little to do with HP, it's actually related to engine operating RPM. So if your rearend gears allow your engine to cruise work at a certain RPM, then you need a stall converter for that RPM or slightly lower. If you engine operates mostly at 2500 rpm, then you don't want a 3000 rpm stall or it wont ever be fully locked up.
If you have a tach in your car you can cruise down the highway and see what the tach says your engine RPM is. Once you know your cruising RPM, then you can choose a converter with the correct stall to ensure it locks up fully at that rpm, or slightly below.

As for bodywork you can surely do it yourself. Depends on what tools you have, patience, and a good eye. My patience is not too good, so I only take my bodywork to a certain level, then let a pro finish it for me.
Most people can completely strip the old paint with a good anglehead grinder and a flapper disc. Just don't get the metal too heated up as it will warp it.
But before you do any bodywork, or stripping you should really talk to the body shop and see what they say about what you can do to help out. Then go get some hints, pointers, etc. on doing the bodywork yourself. Once you've found what you need to do, and how to do it, then get the tools you need. Some of those tools can be hand operated, some can be air. I did my bodywork with hand tools for years, but finally gave in and got air tools and a good compressor to run them.
You'll need a "cheese grater" to rough in the filler, a long board to sand large flat areas and keep them from being rippled, a sanding block to accept 1/4 sheets of sand paper, some body hammers and dollys for working out dents. A pallet to mix filler, and a handful of spreaders to spread it. If you get into anything bigger you'll need other tools and equipment, but that should do you for basic work.
 
  #13  
Old 04-15-2011, 04:33 PM
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im thinkin 2400ish. i dont have a tach but all of the information has been extremely helpful. thanks alot guys!
 
  #14  
Old 04-15-2011, 10:31 PM
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Originally Posted by mr.blue
im thinkin 2400ish. i dont have a tach but all of the information has been extremely helpful. thanks alot guys!
Sounds like a tach might be tops on your list of future purchases!
 
  #15  
Old 04-16-2011, 12:32 AM
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+1 on that. I would get one tomorrow. Anyone, you gotta know what going on with the motor. SPECIALLY RPM.
 
  #16  
Old 04-16-2011, 01:38 PM
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oh i know, the only gauge in my car that really works is my gas gauge lol. And paying $4.10 a gallon, that's just a slap in the face. I was thinking about this:

Thunder Road with Cobalt Gauges
79-81 Camaro

my speedo only goes up to 85...and it is not accurate at all. all of the other gauges are just lights...that dont light up. Also, no tach...just a big fuel gauge.
 
  #17  
Old 04-16-2011, 07:18 PM
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No way to tell your getting ready to walk.
 

Last edited by 77nomad; 04-17-2011 at 01:10 AM.
  #18  
Old 04-16-2011, 11:53 PM
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Waste of money to get that gauge panel and gauge set. Nearly $1,000 for that is rediculous! You can find a nice gauge panel for around $100-$135, then a complete set of gauges to install in it for under $250 (Equus) and use the other money for better things.
 
  #19  
Old 04-18-2011, 06:04 PM
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I love my Equus white face. Have them in two vehicles.
I just cut the factory panel.
 
  #20  
Old 04-18-2011, 08:49 PM
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Originally Posted by gfrench
I love my Equus white face. Have them in two vehicles.
I just cut the factory panel.
I'm using the Equus silver face in my Camaro, and black face (old school) in my gasser. They're really a great price!
 


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