I am in need of a schematic and/or pics of '72 trunk/tail light set up. My two outside lights work. i.e. brake lights, turn signals. However, the two inside with the back up lenses do not even have sockets wired in. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

 

There's really no schematic needed for the inside lights. They use a different socket than the outside, and it's a two wire socket that has one ground and one to the backup light switch. I would bet if you look at the wiring harness that feeds the trunk on the driver's side you'll find the single wire abandoned there that comes from the backup switch.
Just connect that wire to one side of each inner lamp socket, and the other side to the ground for the outter sockets. You should also put the car in reverse with the key on first, then use a test lamp to see if it has power and ensure it's the correct wire.
NAPA sells both sockets for inner and outter. I took one of mine down and just had them match it up. Outters are a 2 pin, and inners are a 1 pin, but same base socket for either 1157 or 1156 lamps.

 

Thanks for the quick response. Right now it's such a mess back there I was gonna rewire the whole thing. I figured while I'm trouble shooting a fuel gauge problem why not? The gas gauge never read accurately since I got the car three years ago. I switched the gauge cluster from "dummy" to U14. I have the dash lights finally working along with the turn signals, tach and speedometer but the gas, amp, clock and temp gauge have never worked. I understand I have to go with a different temp sending unit but do I wire the new one to the existing gauge in the cluster? I know this is a lot of stuff, but thanks.

 

sounds like the wiring has gotten pretty hacked up for all those issues. You will need to replace the gauge also, if you are using a non factory sending unit. If it's factory then it can reconncet to the same gauge, if you know the gauge is good.

 

Yeah, I just peeled back all the old elec. tape and got a rainbow of colors. Looks like the original harness plug is good though. Who ever had this ride before me must of had good intentions then got in a hurry to get it on the road I guess. There were after market oil and temp gauges in place where the ash tray assembly goes but I put it all back original. The gauges are still tucked behind the console because I didn't know where else to mount them or even if I want to. However, but only the oil pressure gauge works. I'm guessing the water temp bulb in the the sending unit went bad. I'm either gonna have to change out the sending unit, gauge or both after I check for continuity. Also, my gas gauge always read 1/4-1/3 tank and right now it's topped off. I'm guessing ground or sending unit on that one. If you're willing, I'll converse about some of the other things I've encountered since I took ownership. It had a 305 in it with a thrown rod but I dropped a 4 bolt main 350 in it 2 yrs. ago. I took out the RV cam and dropped in a Thumper. It already had an Edelbrock carb and intake. 350 turbo with a 3:73 posi. It has been somewhat of a pain setting proper timing and backlash. It sounds great but still has detonation in the exhaust sometimes and lacks that power when you step on the gas. Anyway, I've been having a lot of fun with it because I haven't owned a street machine this old since I was a kid. I'll be 51 in a few hours ha ha. Thanks for your help.

 

Wow your up to 3 posts in 4 years. LOL

 

Well happy birthday!
If it was my car I'd start from scratch on the dash panel. I bought a whole set of gauges, including speedo and fuel gauge for my gasser project from Equus for under $140. I got oil, temp, volts, fuel, and speedo.
I'd buy or make a aluminum panel, get all the gauges, then wire and plumb it all in and just forget all the stock stuff or unused aftermarket. It's way easier, cleaner, and would really set the dash apart from most stock Camaros.
If you don't like aluminum look you can get all kinds of stick on sheet material from black leather look to carbon fiber to cover the panel once it's ready.

I put a Thumper cam in my friend's '56 Chevy with 350. The engine was pretty stock, except for headers and an intake/carb. It sounds great, but I'm not too impressed with the performance, and I think it needed a set of good heads to really perform well with that much cam. I tried to talk him into it, as we had the heads off to so we could install new head gaskets, but he didn't want to spend the money. Now he's regretting it, because his car sounds like a race car, but will barely break the tires loose.

 

He sounds like me. Yeah, the cam came with an upgraded valve spring kit. I have the heads that came off the bad motor. I was thinking about having them machined. A guy at school has a set of dbl humps sitting on a 350 he wants $250 for (the whole long block). He claims a machine shop put it together but his son ruined the motor not breaking it in right. He's kinda full of it but it might be worth looking into. I've been torn between just wrenching away on what I have and doing something as radical as a stroker. I know I'm not happy with the performance as I want to be able to smoke some tires when I step on the peddle. I'll prob be the death of me but I guess my family can bury me in it. ha ha Saw the gauges (pretty sweet) prices have went up slightly but who's hasn't? Should be getting my tail light housings any day now. Can't believe I won 'em for $15.50 and in excellent shape!

 

When buying the gauges I found it's cheaper to buy a gauge set for the oil, volt, and temp, than to buy it all individually. I got the set for $38 with a aux. chrome panel, and that was about $12 less than buying them individually. Then just added speedo and fuel, which were around $65 and $35 if I remember correctly. I bought mine from the local speed shop where I have a small discount also.
I think all the chain stores like Autozone and O'Reillys carry the brand though.

I'd ask the guy if he'll sell the heads off that engine for $150, and forget the rest. Sounds like it might not be a good block anyway. The camel humps are well worth the $250 alone if they're rebuilt, but worth a try to get them cheaper. They'll really make a difference in a good engine with a cam.

 

He won't separate them but says I can have every sbc part in his garage for $300.00. Like I said, he's kinda out there and I'll believe they're dlb humps when I see 'em. I am intrigued to see what else he has for $300.00. Got my trunk rewired and trying to locate back up lamp sockets. Looks like they're the most expensive ones.