Don't go without gaskets, but there's a couple things you can still do to make it seal.
First would be to pull the header and check the sealing surface with a straight edge to see if there's any warpage. If there is you can carefully file, or pul it flat on a belt sander to get the surface flat.
Second you can use the gasket along with the hi temp sealer and it will do the job together. Cutting the flange is a great way to go, and it will help it seal, but the warping may have occurred before you cut it, so it wont seal until you fix the warped flange surface.

 

ok, think i got the header leak fixed, after that i adjusted the valve lash and Start up vid

now i have to go onto my timing, idle sounds abit high, initial is set at 13-14deg, if i go lower it dies, going to adjust my carb with the vacuum gauge next and see where it goes from there.

thanks all for the tips and replys

 

Your idle didn't sound too high, for a cold engine. Plus, your choke was partially closed, which steps up the fast idle cam.
How is it when she warms up to running temperature, choke opens & idle down? Or didn't you let it go that far?

 

didnt let it get that far yet, it was midnight when i got it all finished and the garage smelled horrible from the header paint smoking off. ill try to let it run either tonight or tomorrow

 

got the car to warm up was going to pull it out of the garage and check timing and all, but had 2 leaks from my brake proportioning valve, the 2 bolts are stripped onto the valve, rather than fix and wait for new leaks i'm going to replace the whole proportioning valve. but anyone know where i can find one? looked at autozone, orileys ect and cant find anyone that has it.

 

Proportioning Valve

 

I bought a couple of bits from theoriginalrescuebit.com last week at a farm show. One is 1/4 inch and the other is 1/8. I got the ones that had left and right handed in a combo bit. They were $99 for the pair, kind of pricey I thought, but lets try them out. On the video they did a nice job even grinding out a broken extractor. I figure it is one more way to try to get a broken bolt out. Sears also has a set of small extractors that work VERY well. There are 4 (different sizes) that come in a little plastic box for around $50. I think they are left handed, and have a sort of built in extractor. They have worked really well for me. Hope this can be of help to someone!
Tim

 

If carbide won't drill it it's not coming out.

 

going off topic here, but i'm using the distributor that came off my stock 305, not sure if its causing some timing issues but i want to upgrade to a new one, which is best based on your experiences? accel? msd? or has anyone tried the summit distributors? also i'm using napa belden hi-perf wires

 

I like MSD. Stay away from the cheap ebay ones. The machining is very shoddy. I don't know if they Summit HEI falls into that or not. I almost bought one for my truck but wound up finding one I can fix up.

You can clean yours up and make sure the advance weights arent worn at the piviots. as long as threre isn't slop in the shaft it can be made to work with some cheap fixes.