Ok guys, having some issues removing the subframe on my 76 LT. I have it completely stripped down and only have the rear 4 bolts left to remove. When i try to remove these bolts, i notice thru the hole that the square nut just spins. The plates blocking the squares do not stop the spinning at all. Just wondering what my next step should be. I have sprayed lub on it, PB Blaster, WD 40, all kinds of things. Help guys, please!!!! Have pictures, not sure how to add them though.

 

The front can be seen through the square hole in the firewall. Wedge a screwdriver in there and stop the spinning. The rear two you'll have to cut a hole in the floor above the cage nut and do the same. The fix the cage so it doesn't happen again. Its tempting to weld the nut but you'll have no adjustment when you reinstall.

 

Had that same problem, It can be a pain. Nomads right on. I had to pull the seat, cut the floorpan, and heat mine with the torch to get them to come loose, keep a lot of water handy. Sparks from a cut off wheel will start things burning way quick. I rebuilt the cages and used anti-seize on reassembly.

 

Ya, so i tried the screwdriver thing and it didn't work. Just kept spinning and pushing the cage farther away with the screwdriver. And i used a huge screw driver! Not sure where to go from here, but tack welding the nut in place seems like the best and easiest way to get it done. I need to get it out soon so i can clean it up and send it off to powdercoat before my wife has the baby, or i wont have any time after shes born...

Or maybe heat it with a torch to see if that works? What do you all think?

 

I'd heat it with a torch to see if that works, and still try to wedge it with the screwdriver.

 

So im going to pick up a torch tomorrow,but im wondering if a small hand help one would work fine. I cant get a big torch, but i figure the ones at Lowes go up to 3450 degrees F so that should be plenty i would think. Let me know what you all think so i can pick it up hopefully and get to taking that damn thing off already!!!!

http://www.lowes.com/pd_299446-717-2...rch&facetInfo=

this is what i had in mind.

 

A propane torch like that is all I ever use, and need. Check the flame design on that one. I have two different flame controls, one that lights with a flint sparker, and one that has an igniter with a 4-flame design. But I like the first one better, as it has just one single flame, and I can pinpoint more heat in one single place with it.

 

I like the other/older design. Simpler and seem to last longer. I have four in the garage right now. They seem to get left in my tool box when i quit a job. The kind of work I do; we use them all the time. Like we fight over them, so I'm pretty familiar. The one you posted will be fine. I just like the older Bernzomatic better and will almost always use MAP gas over Propane. It burns way hotter. Like 8 bucks a can at lowes though.

 

Warm it a little with the torch and then spray the penetrant opn it. It will help suck th penetrant into the threads. After it sits awhile, then heat it up a bit more and with the screwdriver wedging the nut try turning it out.

 

OK, so i FINALLY got around to using heat at 2 different times while using impact intermittently and 3 different penetrating oil soaks over a 12 hours period, and it finally came off. WOW!! Talk about a pain! Now i just need to clean it up before i sand it down and take it to the powdercoaters along with my UCAs and LCAs to have them done with 80% flat black and 20% semi mixed in for a nice coat to last a longtime(hopefully.) Thanks for all the assistance everyone, and if you know the best way to clean this thing, I'm open to suggestions.

TJ