Roof area crack question
#1
Roof area crack question
Hi!
I am looking at buying a '73 Camaro, but was a little bit concerned about a crack it has on the driver and passenger side. The 1.5" crack in the paint is in the corner where the roofline touches the back of the front window area. Wish I had a pic but it is where your head would hit when you enter the car---that "L"corner.
The paint is 4 years old and the passenger and driver side each have that split/crack there. Is that a common thing? Does that indicate body filler there or something else?
Please let me know.
Thanks
I am looking at buying a '73 Camaro, but was a little bit concerned about a crack it has on the driver and passenger side. The 1.5" crack in the paint is in the corner where the roofline touches the back of the front window area. Wish I had a pic but it is where your head would hit when you enter the car---that "L"corner.
The paint is 4 years old and the passenger and driver side each have that split/crack there. Is that a common thing? Does that indicate body filler there or something else?
Please let me know.
Thanks
#2
I think you're trying to describe the "sail panel" area (the area between the door windows and back window. Cracks there are caused by body flex, stress, and age. The problem can be compounded by putting in a high h.p. engine. To fix it right the splits would need to be welded up. Subframe connectors will help to prevent that from happening again in the future, or from happening in the first place for a car that doesn't have cracks or buckles there (yet).
#3
I think we are talking about the same area. It would be where a drip rail is, but the rear corner. So if the paint was removed do you think there would be a stress crack in the sheet metal there?
So it sounds like a common thing for this year? I could see the problem in a T-Top car, but never new for a hardtop.
So it sounds like a common thing for this year? I could see the problem in a T-Top car, but never new for a hardtop.
#4
Yes it can be a common area, and not only for your generation Camaro. If there's a crack in the paint, there's a crack in the metal. It's not a big deal, and doesn't mean the body is weak. It's only a p.i.t.a. because to fix it, the paint in that area needs to come off. If the paint on the car is in real nice condition, you may want to consider how important doing the fix at this point would be. But like I said, frame connectors will help, and may also prevent the crack from traveling further.
#7
That top rear corner of the car where the roof rolls over to that side panel is where the 2nd gen Camaros roof was spliced to the 1/4 panel. If properly done at the factory, it should never split, with the exception mentioned of a high HP engine, or lots of hard launches.
It's possible the top could have been replaced at some time from an accident, but unless it was poorly welded, that too should not result in a crack. I suspect (or wonder) if the car might have had a bit too much body filler in that area and is now cracking over time. This would be the most likely cause of a crack in that area.
My 1971 has had a big block 427 in it since the original owner had it installed at his dealer new. There's no signs of any cracks in the roof or main body, even with lots of 1/4 mile runs. I have over the years opened up the gaps between the fenders and doors from body and frame twisting, and eventually I had to install frame connectors to stop that. But even with years of twisting prior to the connectors, my body never cracked.
It's possible the top could have been replaced at some time from an accident, but unless it was poorly welded, that too should not result in a crack. I suspect (or wonder) if the car might have had a bit too much body filler in that area and is now cracking over time. This would be the most likely cause of a crack in that area.
My 1971 has had a big block 427 in it since the original owner had it installed at his dealer new. There's no signs of any cracks in the roof or main body, even with lots of 1/4 mile runs. I have over the years opened up the gaps between the fenders and doors from body and frame twisting, and eventually I had to install frame connectors to stop that. But even with years of twisting prior to the connectors, my body never cracked.
#8
I do not think it is the seam where the 1/4 panel was spliced since that would be more of a horizontal crack and both sides have the diagonal crack. the driver side crack is more promounced then the passenger side.
Most people would look at the paint and say its cracked there but no big deal. As mentioned I'm worried about what got it to crack.
I was told the car was fully restored and repainted and taken down to bare metal, so I doubt they would've just hid the problem with filler, but who knows and that's why I'm asking!!
Most people would look at the paint and say its cracked there but no big deal. As mentioned I'm worried about what got it to crack.
I was told the car was fully restored and repainted and taken down to bare metal, so I doubt they would've just hid the problem with filler, but who knows and that's why I'm asking!!
#9
Don't be too quick to assume they wouldn't hide things with filler! Especially if it was just restored. Very few people will spend the thousannds of dollars a proper restoration costs, and then turn right around and sell the car. I always wonder what reason a owner might have to go through all that effort and expense, if he's selling it.
Could be they saw something they didn't like, and decided to make it look pretty and get rid of it. Very surprising to see a crack on a car that was fresh out of a total restoration, and even more concerning if it's recent.
Could be they saw something they didn't like, and decided to make it look pretty and get rid of it. Very surprising to see a crack on a car that was fresh out of a total restoration, and even more concerning if it's recent.
#10
Like what was stated above, this is a very common spot for the second gens to crack. Although it can be from some hard launches there are a couple of other things to check. Many folks that put on their own quarter panels do not take the time to properly support he body when doing it. If allowed to sag when doing quarters the roof can get cracks where you mentioned. This is especially true with weak rear frame rails, check them ahead of the axle to see if there is any rust damage. If you weld the cracks, do it with a wire feed welder, do not braze or use lead to repair them.