rear end swap issues
#22
i yanked on both ebrake cable ends and i didn't see any movement. Am I looking for the whole cable to move? I did notice that the star adjuster does move but its stiff. do you think that could be causing the ebrake to not work?
Last edited by jason7504; 11-08-2010 at 07:47 PM.
#23
The star adjuster has nothing to do with the E brake. If you disconnect the E brake cables where they come together you can check the cable back to the pass. compartment pedal to see if it's free that direction. Then check the individual cables to each wheel to see if the cable moves freely when pulled.
If everything moves freely, then you may only need an E brake adjustment to make it properly hold.
If everything moves freely, then you may only need an E brake adjustment to make it properly hold.
#24
The star adjuster has nothing to do with the E brake. If you disconnect the E brake cables where they come together you can check the cable back to the pass. compartment pedal to see if it's free that direction. Then check the individual cables to each wheel to see if the cable moves freely when pulled.
If everything moves freely, then you may only need an E brake adjustment to make it properly hold.
If everything moves freely, then you may only need an E brake adjustment to make it properly hold.
#25
Yes, improperly adjusted brakes will affect the E brake's function, but the star adjuster has nothing to do with the E brake, it simply keeps the brakes adjusted. If the brakes are adjusted up you could grind all the ridges off the star and the E brake would work until they wore down enough to not brake properly.
Pull the cables anyway you like. One at a time, or both together. Just have the drums off so you can see if the shoes move while pulling them.
Pull the cables anyway you like. One at a time, or both together. Just have the drums off so you can see if the shoes move while pulling them.
#26
Rear end swap
Yes, I would leave the brake lines attached to the proportioning valve and just unbolt that from the rear and unscrew the left and right rear brake lines out of each wheel cylinder. The emergency brake lines will pop out of each side once the little metal tab is pushed in to release and then the new one will just snap right in (hook it to the brake shoe).
#27
Yes, I would leave the brake lines attached to the proportioning valve and just unbolt that from the rear and unscrew the left and right rear brake lines out of each wheel cylinder. The emergency brake lines will pop out of each side once the little metal tab is pushed in to release and then the new one will just snap right in (hook it to the brake shoe).
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