rear end swap issues

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Old Nov 3, 2010 | 12:20 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by 1971BB427
No you can't remove the E brake cable without disassembling the brakes. You can tie a rag around the ends of the open lines to soak up fluid and keep from having so much mess. Don't break the lines at the wheel cylinders. Break it at the hose that drops to the axle.
so i gotta take the shoes off and springs to get the e-brake cable out? that would suck lol yeah i'm removing the lines at the t-fitting on the rear axle, not at the actual wheel cylinders
 

Last edited by jason7504; Nov 3, 2010 at 01:22 AM.
Old Nov 3, 2010 | 12:53 AM
  #12  
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LINE WRENCHES get em.
 
Old Nov 3, 2010 | 01:24 AM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by 77nomad
LINE WRENCHES get em.
for the brake line bolts?
 
Old Nov 3, 2010 | 10:11 AM
  #14  
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I was going to suggest that as well. Go to the auto store and buy what's called a "flare wrench", that's what you need to use. Figure what size you need by testing a conventional open end wrench on the fitting. As you can see, the wrench "wraps around" the fitting more. If you use a regular open end wrench, you'll end up rounding out the fitting.

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Last edited by Camaro 69; Nov 3, 2010 at 10:14 AM.
Old Nov 3, 2010 | 05:59 PM
  #15  
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i got a set of metric flare nut wrenches today but it has every size besides the size i need which is 11mm i believe for the brake line bolts. and also what's the best way to remove a rounded bolt head? (was already there i swear lol)
 
Old Nov 3, 2010 | 06:14 PM
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Not sure the brake cylinder flare nuts are metric, so that might be the reason nothing fits. As for loosening the nuts that are rounded; you might try a good set of vice grips. I've gotten them off with vice grips tightened really tight and locked on, but don't use cheap ones or it will never work.
 
Old Nov 3, 2010 | 06:18 PM
  #17  
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.....and getting it toasty with a blow torch first will help a lot too.
 
Old Nov 6, 2010 | 08:42 PM
  #18  
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well today i took apart both drum brakes to get the e-brake lines out and then i dropped my rear out so now all i gotta do is put my new rear in, take apart the drums on that rear and install my e-brake cable and then reassemble them and bleed the brakes.

it was quite a challenge to get the rear out with just myself and 1 jack but i did lol when i swap my rear again i'm gonna rent a lift lol

do you think I should hook my e-brake cable up to my new rear or just leave it out since it doesn't work anyway til i get my final rear end in a year or 2? would not connecting the e-brake cable affect normal braking at all?
 

Last edited by jason7504; Nov 6, 2010 at 08:50 PM.
Old Nov 7, 2010 | 08:19 PM
  #19  
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ok well after working on it for 7 hrs today and about 3 days total, the new rear end is finally in. I just gotta take the brakes apart if i put the e-brake cable in. do you think the ebrake cable seized from not being used and that's why they don't work?
 

Last edited by jason7504; Nov 8, 2010 at 12:39 AM.
Old Nov 7, 2010 | 08:39 PM
  #20  
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Cable might be frozen up inside the cable housing.
 



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