ok. I almost have my original axle out. just need to disconnect it from the driveshaft and wheel cylinder brake lines and ebrake lines from my original axle so i can drop it out. Does it tranny have to be in neutral or drive for the driveshaft to rotate? How do you take off the brake line that goes from the proportioning valve to the front?

and the rear end that im gonna swap into my car, has the ebrake lines cut from the drums, how would i reconnect them after i swap it in? and do I even need to hook up the ebrake lines, since my ebrake hasn't worked yet?

 

Neutral to turn the driveshaft.
Why would you want to disconnect from the proportionaing valve? Why not disconnect at the wheel clyinders in back? The E-brake cables have an end that is spring loaded and snaps into the backing plate. If you squeeze it with channel locks inside the backing plate and push it out, it will relaese. Just push the new one in and it will lock when it's seated.
I'd connect the E brake and figure out why it doesn't work.

 

I don't know. i just figured I would disconnect from the proportioning valve or T valve and then plug that into my new valve on the rear end that im swapping in. If i disconnect from the wheel cylinders, then it would still be attached my car via the cable that goes from the front to the valve.

 

That block on the rearend is just a T-junction, not a proportioning valve. The prop. valve is up front near the master cyl. So yeah, that would be a good place to connect your main line back into, provided the lines to the wheel cylinders are in better shape than what you already have.

 

so should I disconnect the wheel cylinder cables and take off the t-junction from my rear and then just reattach it to the rear end that im gonna swap? and how do you prevent brake fluid from draining out when removing the brake lines off my current rear end?

 

I would use whichever sets of lines are in better condition. You can't prevent fluid from leaking once you crack the lines open, and you'll have to bleed the system once you're done. Keep the reservoir cover locked down, or fluid will run out of the open line even faster.

 

ok well my old axle is pretty much free except for the brake lines. I disconnected one side of the t-fitting on the axle from one of the wheel cylinder lines. The other bolt won't budge. I'm thinking of just leaving the wheel cylinder lines on the new axle and just taking the t-fitting off so i could just bolt the t-fitting from my current axle onto the new axle once my old axle is removed. would this work?

and what size wrench are the bolts that hold each wheel cylinder line into the t fitting?

 

should I just drain all the brake fluid out so i don't have it dripping everywhere and then just refill it and bleed it when im done?

 

The E-brake cable is connected to the 2nd shoe though? Can i get it free from that without having to rip my brakes apart?

 

No you can't remove the E brake cable without disassembling the brakes. You can tie a rag around the ends of the open lines to soak up fluid and keep from having so much mess. Don't break the lines at the wheel cylinders. Break it at the hose that drops to the axle.