I just got my motor rebuilt. Stock block with edelbrock top end kit rated at 410hp. Aluminum heads manifold and pretty big cam. The motor runs good but gets way too hot. When i first drove the car home it did fine on the highway but as soon as you slow down and get into stop and go/city driving the temp gauge starts climbing. I had a crack in my overflow tank i replaced it hoping that was the cause, well i drove it yesterday no leaks but still getting too hot. I called the guy who build my motor and he suggested to change out the thermostat to a 160degree. He even suggested looking at the fan, that it may not be pulling enough air. Just wondering if you all had any thoughts or suggestions?

 

Do you have a shroud? maybe get a new water pump or a bigger rad, like a 4 core? But maybe try doing what that guy suggested to, change the thermostat and check out he fan.

 

yea it has a fan shroud, the motor guy told me that he noticed that the fan that was on the car when i first dropped it off wasn't the orgional. He went ahead and reused this fan thinking that it was aftermarket that it would pull more air. I'll try the thermostat since it should be pretty easy. Can you find 4core radiators that will my car? Sorry i don't know a whole like about the cooling system.

 

What's the car?

 

81 Z28 auto 350

 

You can get replacement rads for our cars, maybe you can get one local? But heres a link to a bigger one for 2nd gen camaro's

http://www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts/...ek+Google+Base

 

I used a Griffin universal radiator for mine with polyuerathane (sp?) supports. I think it was like around 160 - 200 bucks and I never get over 180 degrees.

 

Check to make sure your ignition timing isn't out of whack. Too far one way or the other will make the engine run hotter. In my past experiences, being too far retarded was more critical with heat than too far advanced.

 

Fan not close enough to the rad.

A cheap aluminum rad is one from the local parts store with plastic tanks for around 150 bucks. I forget the application but I can find it for you. Also a cheap electric fan upgrade is belive it or not from a ford taurus.

IDK about the 160 degree some heat is necessary. I like a solid 180.

Is the spring in the lower hose? If not it could collapse.

Cheap aluminum water pumps are around 65 buck, and flow more but wiegh less.

Timing definitly, like 69 said. I've seen headers glowing red from firing while the exhuast valve is open.

How old is the rad? A old clogged up stocker is not gonna cool the extra 200 ponies that the car now has, it was only designed aroung a 185 hp max. Even my T/A only had 230.

Oh yeah welcome. And let us know what happens.

 

You can go to the big block radiator, and it will not only be thicker, but wider. You'll need a new top hold down plate, and they're about $25 from most places for a chrome. Also need to move the rubber cushions to the outside holes and open up the radiator support while you're changing the radiators.
My big block runs around 170 all the time with a 2 row aluminum radiator, but they are 1" rows, not the little 1/2" rows. Two rows of 1" are way better than 4 rows of 1/2".