long story short. I just got new brakes on my 70 camaro, and they suck i only get about 10 % braking power, the pedal goes all the way to the floor.

I change all these parts. i hope i didn't miss nothing the brake lines are still good.

it has all these parts new.

new
master cylinder
brake booster
rotor's
drums
front pads
back shoes
wheel cylinder's

and the car still brakes like ****, the shop said that was normal for that car. i don't think that's right . what do you guy's think. any advice will be appreciated.

 

im with you that dont sound right but thats just me

 

Were the master cylinder and the lines all bled?When i replaced a wheel cylinder i forgot to bleed it when i first put it on and i had this same problem.

 

yes i did. i even did it my self the lines are blead and they even put a corvette master. they said it works better. the car feels like i'm braking with drum brakes feels like my v dub. lol lol. they also said that the calipers are bad but they don't leak. when i check them. i paid close 600 bucks for all these. i could bougth a new break upgrade instead of them just doing the brakes. i'm so ****

 

You may have air trapped in the line as well. I just changed my entire system as well and ran into the same thing. crack the line heading to the back ( out of the proportioning valve) and bleed it from there. Also did you change the proportioning valve?? that could be blocked up with dirty fluid as well.

Also you could have gotten defective parts, or even a vacuum loss. check the line from the manifold to the booster. just a couple things to check.

 

thanks but i think my proportioning valve is messt up.

 

Mine was 1/2 the master wasnt bled. The pedal did the same as you describe, only it just did it 1/2 way down. The front was good. I think I cracked the line to the rear between the master and prop valve and got the air out that way. I was pissed too, I had paid 1400 for the whole works, but that took care of the dead line. I didnt belive it was air in the line either, but after everything thats what it was. It was like no matter how much I bled them it didnt change until I did the master.

 

If it was working 90% better before then there is something definitely wrong. I would take it back to them and tell them that it's not "normal" especially if it's worse. Threaten to take it to the Better Business Bureau and to another shop for verification so that way you have proof that they're doing it wrong or just being lazy. If you were in an accident due to not stopping they could easily be held to fault for doing a shoddy job.

 

Don't take this the wrong way, since I don't know your skill levels.
Did you bench bleed the master? If not there's a good chance that air is still in there. You need to install hoses on the two reservoirs and route them back into the reservoir and pump the pedal until it's copletely bled.
Did you bleed the brakes starting at the furthest wheel from the master (RRear) then move to L rear, R front, and finally L front? This is important, as any other sequence wont get all the air out.
Also be sure the booster has good vacuum, and no leaks, plus is directly off manifold vacuum.
With everything you've installed the brakes should be perfect, and better than ever if done right. I'm a little concerned about the statement, "the calipers are bad, but they don't leak". If they're bad, then fluid will pass when they are compressed, and it would blow the boots off the calipers. If they don't leak, they can't hardly be bad.
PS- If these guys say the brakes are supposed to be that way, they're idiots! My brakes on my '71 will easily lock up all 4 wheels and without much pressure.

 

That's what I'm saying. New and improved parts should make it better over old and worn parts. You shouldn't be losing performance.